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SABOTEER / Francois Frigon / San Antonio, Texas / frigon8@hotmail.com / 2-1-2011: Started in mid-December 2010. Next step is fairing and plywood installation.
SABOTINA / Erich Marse / Whittier, CA / bikermouse@excite.com / 5-25-2009: I ordered plans for the Sabotina several years ago, and my sons and I started building two weeks ago (5/10/2009). So far, we have the strongback and temporary frames built. I’m looking forward to building something that will actually be part of a boat. 😉 None of us are woodworkers, but I’m confident that we can do this. Then we can move on to building something bigger and more complex that we know we can’t do… My name is D. Erich “Mouse” Marse and I live in Whittier, CA. Pix are available at my myspace page, under the Boat Build album. TTYL and God Bless – The Mouse on the Motorcycle – www.myspace.com/mouseonamotorcycle
7-9-09: I have made good progress on the Sabotina so far, despite the fact that my helpers have been kept away over the summer teaching at Boy Scout Camp. I got the epoxy today to affix the keel and chine/sheer logs, and I’ll do that this weeknd. At least the one layer of the keel. I’ll probably let the joints set up for a week before laminating the shaped bottom of the keel in place, and planing the frames, logs, and keel into fair curves. It’s getting to be boat-shaped! (See Customer Photos)
SABOTINA / Tim Hanson / Roseville, California / Tim.hanson27@gmail.com / 2-20-2011: I started the Sabotina in mid-December 2010. I am currently waiting for the air to warm a bit to finish the fiberglass application on the hull. My goal is to set sail in early spring, 2011.
SCOOTER / Dick Koepp / onogolly@aol.com / 8-17-98: Completed and launched.
SCOOTER / Ellis Bryan / email address not valid 4-10-03 / 1-6-2000: Currently fastening the cross braces to the tunnel sides and assembled frames. 7-26-00: Hello there everyone, I love this boat. I’m finished with the hull and the bottom of the boat. I would like to hear from anyone who has built a Scooter.
SCOOTER / Russ Ware / Houston, TX / Rware99@yahoo.com / 10-8-04: Completed and launched 5-15-04.
SCRAMBLER / Richard Herrick / Northwest Washington /rjcherrick@wavecable.com / 1-17-08: Just finished gluing the side planking. 1-30-08: The side planking is finished, the 1st layer on bottom is finished , and just a few more for the 2nd layer and after some sanding it will be ready for fiberglass/epoxy.
5-7-08: The last month has been slow, I just finished dismantling a 16′ very neglected boat but with a galvanized trailer for $300.00. I was able to salvage the ss screws and bolts, the helm and cable, 21 gallon fuel tank, bilge pump, gauges, breaker panel and rocker switches, cleats, lights, and a transom mount swim platform with pull out ladder. Considerable savings was had here which means I’ll be looking at a 115 HP motor soon. This has been a blast and we will have a mid summer launch. (see Customer Photos)
SCULL BOAT / John Cottenham / jacduck@jacducks.com / 8-1-98: start, floating test 8-25-98 , hunted Geese with boat on 9-1-98, love it so far on small waters. Few construction problems. Looking at another project now. 4-10-03: Address is good and the scull has been hunting for 3 years. Also built Sneak Box. (see Customer Photos)
SCULL BOAT / Dan Lins / / 9-24-99: Putting on planking now. 10-11-99: Finished plywood; all woodwork is done, ready to fiberglass and paint. Here is a picture of framework. 4-10-03: Yes the E-mail address is still good but the boat project has been completed for a couple of years now. (see Customer Photos)
SCULL BOAT / Scott Dover / scottd@mid-mo.net / 7-15-00: Finishing the frame work and preparing for addition of plywood. Started 7-8-00. Should be adding decking the week of 7-16-00. 11-19-01: I have now completed the scull boat and hunted from it on a couple of occasions. It worked very well as a layout boat in a low level marsh and glides like a gator on larger lakes. Easy to hide and very sea worthy. I am working on “learning how to scull” and may build a light version of the boat solely dedicated to marsh hunting. 4-17-03: My project is complete and I hunted out of it for the first time this past fall. I was successfull in trying to scull but will need alot more practice. The boat is very stable and I took it thru some rough waters with breakers going over the bow just past the port hole on occasion :(. It held tough and I did not have far to go. I punished it in the ice and it was great. A well designed boat.
SCULL BOAT / Mike Guymon / Lake shore, Utah / guymonmi@uvsc.edu / 6-20-03: Started the project 1/20/02. Took my time. But am almost done. Am applying the last coat of epoxy tonight. Then 3 coats of oil base paint, then take it down and throw it in the drink(with ballast). And mark the water line. And check for any leaks…..there wont be any! Then install the Oar hole from Lock Stock & Barrel. And it should be done. And ready to start the process of learning to scull. Was a real nice project. Am going to miss it. Maybe I’ll need to build another boat. There will be pics posted on the “Sculling For Waterfowl” web site when I’m done. 7-23-03: Finished the boat in June. Have had it out learning to scull all of July. The boat handles great. A good sturdy, sea worthy, float. Been fiddling with ballast in the bow.So Im not getting bow slap on the water. Getting closer to having it right. Now just practice…practice. It’s pretty cool how the single oar out the transom gets the boat moving.
SCULL BOAT / John McGovern / Freeland, WA / homerun@whidbey.net / 8-13-04: I got the plans for your scull boat on July 16, 2004. Today is August 13 and the boat is finished. Less than a month. I was really pleased with the plans and patterns. All went well and it was a lot of fun to do. I did not do the camoflage paint job because I don’t hunt anymore, but I just liked the boat and will put a Yamaha 2 stroke on it for power. (see Customer Photos)
SCULLING SKIFF / Jeff Gill / Brightlingsea, Essex, UK / jeff.gill@tesco.net / 6-26-99: Building Sculling Skiffs. We have three on the go at the moment. Hulls virtually complete. Outriggers partially done. Should be on the water by August for Brightlinsea Regatta weekend. (see Customer Photos)
SCULLING SKIFF / Luis Reis / S. J. Campos, São Paulo, Brazil /Luismreis@directnet.com.br / 9-22-04: I’ve finished in 2002 my Skulling Skiff which took me around 7 months to finish it. It was built in Plywood (Pinewood) fully covered with Fiberglass (Epoxi). It was painted with PU varnish. All skulling gear was acquired locally. It has given me a lot of pleasure, I’ve cruised several times the Ilhabela Channel (6 k) in São Paulo. (see Customer Photos)
SCULLING SKIFF / Mike Flynn / Gravois Mills, MO / mvfozarks@peoplepc.com / 5-16-06: Hull done, installing sliding seat. 5-21-06: Ready for launch. (see Customer Photos)
SCULLING SKIFF / Mike Van Susteren / Verona, Wisconsin /mvansusteren@wisctv.com / 9-1-06: The hull is filleted and taped in the inside. I do not have the bow or stern tops made yet. Currently I’m working on the chine edge getting ready to epoxy the outside. The plan is to build the seat this winter and christen it in 2007.
SCULLING SKIFF / Dan Marsh / Virginia Beach, VA / danmarsh@cox.net / 11-22-06: I bought the Scull plans in October and have started construction in the garage. I’ve attached a few pics. As of today I am taping the outer chine. I intend to use the scull on the Nansemond river mainly. This is my 3rd Glen L boat. The first was the Eight Ball rowing version. The second was Duck Boat Two. Next one will probably be a shoal draft sharpie for cruising the back water system.
4-16-08: Been a year (unbelievable) since I sent a photo. But yesterday I finished sanding and put a primer coat on my scull. The hull has nice lines. I’ll sand/paint tomorrow and then right her to finish the deck and build the sliding seat assembly. (see Customer Photos)
SCULLING SKIFF / Neil Jefferson / Covington, IN / boat@codeman.biz / 6-28-08: Completed 06/26/2008 – Built hull, sliding seat rigging and oars. Hull is 1/8″ marine ply and redwood. Oars are redwood, pine, and Kubota crate mahogany. Rigging is laminated marine ply and pine. We launched the boat today, 06/28/2008, and it looks beautiful in the water. Others mention the instability and I can confirm that this is going to take time to master. I plan on lowering the seat as much as possible in the coming week to get the center of gravity down and this will hopefully improve things. My kids had fewer balance problems and I put this down to their light weight and lower cg. Construction photos are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nj_22/
SCULLING SKIFF / Tom Heywood / Belmont, North Carolina /heywire05@yahoo.com / 11-22-09: Laying out Hull on plywood.
SCULLING SKIFF / Andy Guzik, Jr. / Delran, New Jersey / aaguz1@aol.com / 7-11-10: The side planking is stitched to the bottom. I will be installing the inner shear, the forward and aft frame today. Should be filleting the inside chine this week. Follow the directions and this boat is easy to build.
SEA KAYAK / Kim Brooks / Kim0952@aol.com / 8-7-99: Began construction 8-1-99, stitching of hull complete.
SEA KAYAK / Frank Cassianna / Bonanza, Oregon / navigator902@yahoo.com / 1-29-01: I have completed all stiching and glueing and am preparing to fiberglass. Thanks for all your help.
SEA KAYAK / Bill Quigley / wjquigs@yahoo.com / 03-21-01: New and updated web site for Foamee and Sea Kayaks: http://www.quigs.org/ 4-10-03: email valid
SEA KAYAK / Richard Baim / Edmond, OK / rbaim@francistuttle.com / 4-12-02: The 17′ sea kayak is complete with 9 coats of marine varnish on the deck and red urethane paint on the hull. 4-10-03: This email address still works and my project is finished.
SEA KAYAK / Cliff Harvey / Warren, Rhode Island / charvey@screaminet.com / 11-7-02: I have the hull taped together and am getting ready to tape the chines before installing the decks. This boat has great lines!
SEA KAYAK / Kenneth Perry / Rochester, NY / kperry1@rochester.rr.com / 3-26-04: I am currently building two Glen-L Sea Kayaks. I began building in late January or early Febuary of 2004. The project has been a fun and easy one. I am currently nearly done with one of them, and fast catching up with the second one. I should have both complete in about five weeks for a 60 mile kayak trip through the Adirondaks. Check my progress at http://home.rochester.rr.com/kayakbuilding/. When all is said and done, I expect it will have taken about 2 1/2 months to build two of your sea kayaks.
SEA KAYAK / Kent George / Humble, TX / kgeorge77@houston.rr.com / 1-27-06: I have recently begun construction on a Glen-L “Sea Kayak”. I have just completed stitching the keel halves together and installed the bulkheads. I am extremely excited about my Glen-L project, and I am amazed at how quick and easy this project is. I really enjoy working with the “Poly-Shield Encapsulation System” and find it extremely strong and forgiving. (see Customer Photos)
SEA KAYAK / David V. Lott / Branson West, MO / dlott@usit.net / 3-1-07 Started cutting out lower and side panels. Using ¼ in mahogany exterior grade plywood. This will add a little extra weight but I need the extra weight since most of time I will be paddling around Table Rock Lake which can be choppy at times. I am substituting the plywood deck with cedar strips thus this will take a little more time. The strips have been ordered and waiting on arrival. As soon as I finish with the project, I will be starting my dream project – Riviera. Talk about out of the frying pan and into the fire. 4-2-07. Hull completed without deck. Epoxy fillet, interior and exterior fiberglass tape completed. Since I am changing the deck from plywood to strips I changed the shape to a radius with 4 ½ in loft in the bow and 2 loft in stern. This required that I stitch up the lower hull using the forms with the plans and then replacing the forms and bulkheads with ones having the radius. I found a very nice 20 ft piece of clear grain redwood which I cut down to ¼ in wide strips. This will let me run 2 strips down each side and 3 down the center. I will fill in the balance with strips cut from a clear piece of white pine. I am planning to paint the hull black which should set off the red and white strips on the deck nicely. This has been an interesting experience learning how to work with epoxy and fiberglass and glad I did this project before the big one.
SEA KAYAK II / Steve Wood / steve.wood@cplc.com / 11-5-98: Attaching mid deck, putty and tape outside next. 4-16-99: Completed construction; conducted sea trials 4-6-99. 6-10-99: Painted hull, installed rudder; paddle technique continues to improve, rudder is great, considering a sail rig.
SEA KAYAK II / Christian + Franz Kosnar / chrisko@aon.at / 5-30-00: Taped and sealed inside of hull, added sheer clamps,cambered deck, beginning to install coaming.
SEA KAYAK II / Roy Gambino / New Jersey / mgambino4@comcast.net / 8-11-03: Starting to assembling parts. I started to cut out parts in January 1996. TIP for anyone, always start with the best Marine Plywood you can get. If it looks like a bargain RUN as fast as you can. There is no such thing as a free lunch. Had to stop project for reasons beyond my control. Restarted project 7/25/03, now beginning to assemble kayak. Have been slightly delayed due to the forever rain. 12-22-03: Have most of kayak assembled at this time. Need to epoxy deck on yet, and then paint.
SEA KNIGHT / Bob and Jer Maskel / Minneapolis, MN / metrotroop@aol.com / 7-14-98: fairing chine, sheer, bottom. 10-25-98: applying planking, going smoothly. 1-17-00: After several months wothout working on the boat, the hull is planked, ready to prepare for fiberglassing when weather warms. 1-25-01: Not a lot of spare time to work last summer. Hull fiberglassed, bottom sanded and primed. Suggestions/info regarding paint would be welcome. Have heard everything from latex barn paint to multi-part epoxy… 5-30-01: Holy cow, no spare time to work now that the weather finally warmed. Bottom sanded, primed, and in the process of getting its final coat of paint. Will be turning it over in the next week or so, then the fun begins! 7-20-01: Hull turned over, deck beams/hatch frame done, coating the inside with epoxy and filleting the joints. Weather 90 degrees+ makes the epoxy gel way too fast! V-berth, cabinets and deck on in the next few weeks. 4-10-03: I have the forward deck on and the cabin sides and roof and of course the windshield framing. I am currently building the motor well to fit the 100 HP Mariner (yee ha!) I bought for it last fall. I am beefing up the transom to 3″ thick within the motor well and have 2 X 3 1/2 mahogany uprights and transom brace. I also have to figure out where to put the gas tank. I’d like to put a 20-28 gallon tank on it but think that might be too much weight in the back with the 315 pound motor. With some time and some decent weather it should be on the water mid-summer. 12-30-03: Well, I just read my registry entry from April 03 and realized yet another summer slipped away. The ol’ Sea Knight didn’t see water again this year, but it BETTER next year! The motor well is in, fuel tanks located (2 – 18 gal tanks just aft of the cockpit bulkhead per Glen-L), as well as seating, controls, etc. Helm is made and being stained/varnished, cockpit sole is in, interior done. Sooo, I have the flybridge windshield to put on, the forward decking (finish boards on top of the ply), hatch, and finish work in the cockpit area and wiring to get in this spring. Spare time is not something I seem to have a lot of, and not having a heated garage/workshop limits the months available here in Mpls./St. Paul, MN. As always, thanks to all the folks at Glen-L for their fine products and great web site. I look forward to the webletters and have gotten many good tips from it. (see Customer Photos)
SEA KNIGHT / Hugh Nicholson / hnicholson@algomacas.org / 7-22-99: Completed stem, keel, ribs, and installing transom. First time builder and going well so far.
SEA KNIGHT / Tom Doyle / tom.doyle@casne.com 1963 SEA KNIGHT (Restoration) / 6-15-00: The boat was in pretty good shape structurally, but had a terrible paint job and the fiberglass was badly cracked on the roof of the cabin. I am at present in the process of stripping and sanding all the paint off of the hull. The hull has quite a few small areas where the fiberglass has worn through to the wood that will have to be repaired. I have already stripped and sanded the deck and the roof of the cabin, and finished the fiberglass repairs on the roof. Once this is complete, I plan to re-sand and finish all the Mahogany. I also plan to spread a thin coat of marine bond dough on the hull, and newly repaired cabin roof, to smooth it out before I paint it with epoxy primer and paint. I’m also planning to modify the transom to handle a long shaft motor. 8-20-02: Well, after 2 years and a little change, I was able to finish the restoration project on the 1963 Sea Knight I purchased. The boat has been completely stripped and re-done. 4-10-03: Email address valid. (see Customer Photos)
SEA KNIGHT / John / email address not valid 4-10-03 / 2-12-01: I bought the frame kit for the sea knight and started to put the jig together on monday, 2/5/01. I had to make corrections as I went along but everything seems to have turned out fine so far. My son, 13, and I have installed all the frames and the stem. We are waiting to receive the plywood before we fit the keel. Dixieline in Escondido, CA can get 4’x8’x 3/8″ AA marine plywood for $56. 3-19-01: I have installed the side planking. The bottom of the stem was challenging. But with hot water and a little leverage (a 2×4 off the wall) we got the planking to bend around the stem. I figure we’ll have to do the same for the final bottom planking. 3-15-02: I have completed the Sea Knight, but I’m still working on some small things here and there. It took 1 year and 18 days from start to getting her in the water. It was a great experience and I hope to build another boat someday. I stuck a 60 hp merc on it and so far I haven’t had water smooth enough to go flat out, but 60 seems more than enough. (See Customer Photos)
SEA KNIGHT / Charlie Bresette Jr. / Menomonee Falls, WI / Deceased / 1-19-03: I have finally retired as of this year and am officially started on my second Sea Knight as described in the text of pictures already posted in your Customer Photos-Archives. I will keep you up to date on my progress. Wish me Luck! 4-10-03: The Sea Knight is coming along very well. Since my retirement on January One I have been working on it on a continuous basis. At the present all frame pieces are cut and are being assembled. They are 15/16″ Mahogany and will make a very strong hull. Planned power for this second Sea Knight is the 115 HP 4 stroke EFI Mercury 4 Cyl. I will keep you up to date on this project. 12-5-03: The seven month delay in this project is now over. This Dec. month marks the return to the project. Purchase of all plywood and Sitka Spruce will be completed and the construction form will be assembled. I anticipate the year 2004 will see the completion of this project. 1-19-04: This week the building form is being assembled and will be ready for the already completed frames, transom, and stem. I have just purchased a 2004 Mercury 4 stroke EFI 115hp engine for this boat and as a result have decided to increase it’s length the allowable 10%. (see Customer Photos)
SEA KNIGHT / Catherine (Katie) Allen / Ellenton, FL / pianotek1@netzero.net / 3-18-04: Currently all frame members are in place and am beginning the fairing. 6-14-04: Cockpit and cabin are underway now.
SEA KNIGHT / Dale L. Smith / Indianapolis, IN / dlsmith1@comcast.net /12-30-05: I had purchased your plans a few weeks ago and am under construction. I have the building form completed and married to my shop floor, and have traced the frames to Mahogany. Date started 12-29-05. I have a heated shop 24 X 35, so winter is no problem.
SEA KNIGHT / Derrick Sewell / Winchester, VA / mosnei2@aol.com / 11-25-06: In the process of building the frames and assembling them on the form. This is a project I am building with my son, so most of the work will be done the summer of 2007 when he is home again from college. For the time being though, I am slowly working on the frames and hope to be ready for bottom planking when he gets home, and that should allow us to at least finish the hull and begin on the cabin before he has to return to school.
SEA KNIGHT / Rory J. Hamilton / Clinton, Tennessee /rory.hamilton@erieinsurance.com / 12-28-09: (NOTE: I am building a modified version of the Sea Knight omitting the cabin all together). I have just completed the building form (built Dec 26th & 27th). I will begin frame layout and assembly over the next couple of weeks.
SEA KNIGHT / Tim Peltier / Thibodaux, Louisiana / peltiertim@yahoo.com / As of 05-29-16 I am almost finished fairing the frames, chine, keel and sheer. Should be able to start planking the sides soon! Started the project in January of 2014. Added about 10% between frames. Boat will be right at 18 ft. long.
SHANGRI-LA / Jon Puttonen / Jon_Puttonen@tamu-commerce.edu / 8-25-98: Installing last plywood panel on hull. 12-25-01: Hull fiberglassed and painted. Hull flipped on some old tires with no problem. Built a cradle and the hull is now upright. Completing epoxy coating of interior.
SHANGRI-LA / Leo Koornneef / Canada / leo.k@primus.ca / 4-7-01. Completed frame ‘D’ , bulkheads ‘C’ , and transom framing. 5-7-01: All bulkheads, frames, stem and breasthook completed. Starting building form. I have coated all components with Marine epoxy. 6-11-01: Sheer and chine are now in place, and fairing will be next. To date, no problems have been encountered, and the whole assembly is starting to look like a boat. 7-3-01: Side planking is now complete, and I have started fairing of the chine and keel for the bottom planking. 7-30-01: Bottom planking is now complete and hull is ready for sprayrail, liftstrakes, sanding and epoxy coating after which I will paint the bottom before turning the hull over. 8-28-01: Hull is now completed and the bottom below the spray rail has been coated with an epoxy moisture barrier and two coats of urethane paint. The sides will be treated later. The hull was turned over (right side up) after building a complete frame around the hull in order to protect the sides from collapsing due to the weight which would be put on one side while turning. Part of this frame was cut away once the hull was flipped, and the other part now forms a cradle in which the hull will remain until the whole boat is complete. I wish to stress the importance of proper support for the hull prior and during turning. It took the better part of two days to build the frame/cradle unit but it was well worth the effort. Five men turned the hull in less than two minutes without any problems or damage. The hull/frame combination is approx. 1000 Lb… 4-27-02: Cabin sides and frames are ready for installation. Front cabin outer sides and frames are now installed. Engine has been rebuilt and converted during the winter and is ready for installation. 6-12-02: Cabin is now installed and work is being done on the interior. I am leaving the main part of the main cabin roof off until fall this will provide ventilation while working inside. The roof can be completed in a few hours since all framing is in place and only the plywood panel have to be installed. Epoxy coating will not be done until the boat is nearly complete. 5-19-03: The exterior of the boat (hull, cabin, decking etc.) has now been completed and the two coats of epoxy will be applied next. The cabin interior is well under way and will be completed as soon as the hull has been painted. 7-18-03: The boat has now been completely painted, and work is being performed on the main cabin interior. A fibreglass ceiling has been installed in the main cabin. All elecrical wiring in the cabin has been completed. Most hardware has been installed, except for the railing. and most of the plumbing is complete. 9-4-03: Both cabins are now complete, all plumbing is complete and all fixtures both electrical and plumbing are installed and tested. I will start preparations to install the engine and I/O this week. The transom will be ‘beefed up’ in order to accept the transom plate mounting studs, thus, instead of the 3/4 inch thickness the transom thickness will be increased to 1 1/2 inch.
SHANGRI-LA (Rebuild of boat built in 1985 by Flemming Madsen)/rebuild by Kent Madsen/Alberta, Canada/Kent@madsensmillwork.com/12-22-16: Should be completed in April 2017, boat is named Dana Brae.
SHERWOOD QUEEN / Terry Dailey / t3r2@yahoo.com / 8-22-01: I completed the frame last week. I have the stringer, stem, frame ribs and transom in place. I have temporarily fastened these parts and checked all my measurements. I hope to start connecting all the pieces this weekend.
SHERWOOD QUEEN / Dan / Snohomish, WA / dnsea@aol.com / 8-1-02: I have finally started to build sherwood queen. Being a mechanic by trade this should be a interesting project. I have the first frame together and mounted on the form. Started my vacation today, plan to put in some time on project. I am trying to take my time and do it right, you might call this project a form of therapy… 4-10-03: My sherwood Queen project is going pretty well. The hull is waiting for money for fiberglass, but other than that, all’s well for my first boat, or for that matter, my first woodworking project. I enjoy it so much I started another boat. I call it scrappy… it’s 7foot 6inch long and made with scraps from the queen project. Anyway, I’ve included my file of photos with this email. 10-14-03: My Queen project is coming along nicely or I should say nice and slow, but then again that’s why I started this, to learn patience ! I recently finished covering her with cloth and epoxy and paint, turned it over this weekend and set it on the trailer. (see Customer Photos)
SHERWOOD QUEEN / Clark Johnson / Laurel, MT / clark@usadig.com / 9-11-06: Nearly done with hull skin. Next comes faring and fibreglass. I’m using Marine okumoe 9 mm plywood over old growth Douglas fir frames. I stretched the length of the boat to approx. 17′ by spacing an extra 10% between all frame members. Seems to be working out just fine.
SHERWOOD QUEEN / Paul / Ontario Canada / jmaloneycleaning@gmail.com / 3-13-07: Just started building frames and transom. Not in a big rush, just taking it slow being first timer and enjoying every minute that I work on it. More to follow as progress contiues.
SHERWOOD QUEEN / Ernest E. Eaton / Punta Gorda, Florida /ernesteaton@peoplepc.com / 4-26-07: Plans Purchased, initial lumber on hand and wook area prepared.
SISSY DO / Jim Acheson / email address not valid 4-10-03 / 3-31-99: Started cutting out parts 3-26-99, and I have completed making the ribs, stem, stem cap, and fairing chine logs and sheers. All parts have been epoxied and screwed with silicon-bronze fasteners. If I was not interrupted by the weather, this would be a one week project for one man.
SISSY DO / Jan Reilly / Sherwood Park, AB Canada / jreilly66@shaw.ca / 01-09-03: Just started. 8-10-03: Well, I am finally finished with my Glen-L Sissy Do. I started in January 2003, moved the project outside in the spring, and finally finished it in July. Thanks for the fun. (web site: www.members.shaw.ca/brandonjohnson/boat/boat.htm)
SISSY DO / George Maher / Fargo, ND / gmaher@ndsuext.nodak.edu / 9-26-03: I actually started building my Sissy Do in August of 2003, with the building of the stem, transom, and frames, fastened with glue and brass wood screws. Next came the building form, made with ordinary construction lumber, fastened with deck screws. Last week I cut out and attached the chine logs, and the shear strips. Had to soak the chines and shears with towels soaked in very hot water to get nice, smooth bends. Quite a challenge getting them to mate up to the stem correctly! Last night I attached the battens to the boat frame. Next is the fairing of the chine strips in preparation for the plywood planking, that will be some precise work with the hand plane and a good straightedge. Thank goodness for my warm, heated garage! (See Customer Photos)
SISSY DO / Nick DeChico / Langhorne, Pennsylvania / Iamthewalrus9@comcast.net/ 10-18-05: I am buiding the Sissy-Do for my graduation project at school; I am 16 years. I am building the Sissy-Do in my garage with my father’s assistance. I received the plans in May of 2005 and started building it in August. At this point (October 17), the boat is completely framed with the battens attached. All frame material is mohagany and was purchased from a local lumberyard as was the 3/4″ marine plywood for the transom. I could not find any 1/4″ or 3/8″ marine plywood locally so I ordered from it a lumberyard in Maryland and had it shipped to my house. Currently, I am in the process of fairing the chines, battens and sheers. As part of my project I am documenting the progress with pictures and a written report. (See Customer Photos)
SISSY DO / Jim Newman / Richmond Hill, Georgia / jnewman3@bellsouth.net / 4-28-09: My photos represent a 99% complete skiff, which I modified to a 15′ pocket tunnel hull for power use. I used fir plywood, epoxy fiberglass and fir battens. The seats are mahogany, and as you can see from the photos, the interior is a natural finish. I have another project which is a 34′, NC bow flare, express sportsfishing boat. I designed this boat myself and have been the sole builder for the past seven years. It is about 75-80% complete and should be done in a year or two. The skiff was a fast build in comparison to the large boat project which involves much more work. So, I really enjoyed completion of it in a couple of weeks, notwithstanding rainy, wet weather and cool weather. I used a single layer of biaxle on the bottom, with epoxy coating on the sides and interior. The pale blue finish on the sides is Interlux. The interior is natural cedar, fir and select pine. The shear and chime rails are a contrasting white composite. This project was a snap compared to my other long term project due to the very good line drawing and patterns. Thanks so much. (See Customer Photos)
SKI BASS / Manfred Sawinski / Germany / manfred.sawinski@t-online.de / 2-20-03: I started the project 10 Jan 2003, will be finished for season April 2004. The frames, Transom and keel are ready. Now I am looking for wood for bottom and sides. 7-1-03: yesterday 6 mm plywood for bottom arrived. 8-22-03: Bottom closed. Nice weekend to install lift-strakes. 1-14-06: Excuse me for creative time out in this project. I must look for a working-place, the garage was too small. The level of ski bass project: working wood 95 %, painting 50%, technic/engine 0 %. I hope to complete the project with a friend this summer.(see Customer Photos)
SKI BASS / Darryll Sollosy / Macklin, Sk, Canada / dgsollosy@sasktel.net / 1-16-06: I’ve just started cutting/milling lumber for my frames and have plywood on order.
SKI BASS / Louis F. Mauro / lmauro@comcast.net / 9-2-07: I purchased plans for a ski bass about 16 years ago. I converted it to an open bow and put a Mariner 150 on the back. Never got around to sending you guys a picture. Thought you might like to see it. Took me 6 summers to build. Been in the water for ten years. People still turn their heads and give me a thumbs up. Bennett Trim Tabs. Custom Stereo & power amps. Livewells double as coolers. Two people = 55mph. The hull design is remarkably similar to a Ski Nautique which is the reason I chose this design. This is a wonderful ski boat. I cannot emphasize that enough. Feel free to email if you have any questions. (see Customer Photos)
SKI KING / Dwain Colton / Portland, OR / dbcolton@ccwebster.net / 11-15-03: Just starting 15′ Ski King inboard. Old design(’53-’54?). Using Ash for frames, etc. Will use 140 hp Mercruiser engine amidships with 70c type trans. Had one in the 60’s with a 70 hp Jeep in it and it would go 33 mph. I pulled 7 skiers with it once, 2 out of the water 5 off dock with staggered rope lengths. Almost unbelievable???? Anyone else building the Ski King? Let me hear form you. 12-11-03: Frames and transom complete and on building form. I added 3″ between frames # 2 and # 3 and 3″ between 3 and 4, just for a little more engine space.Chines installed, now installing sheers. Did this much in 2 weeks. Picked up a donor boat ’62 Glen-L Miss Mist(needs new bottom and is for sale). I got prop, shaft, strut, log, rudder, steering, and controls. Actually if I’d found this boat 3 weeks ago, I most likely would have rebuilt it, as it is in good condition except for bottom. I’m in Portland, Or. area if anyone is interested. Would trade parts HAR! 1-23-04: I’ve made some progress after the 1st of the year, the planking is almost done. Will mount the strut and drill the hole then paint and roll ‘er over. Still have some Ash left from the frames, so will use it for the deck edges and king plank with dark Mahog. in center with white calk stripes. 6-22-04: Planking complete, painted, working on deck. 2-14-05: The finished decking seems to look better in person. I’m not sure how it will go over with other people, but is a different approach. I still have to build the center deck piece, but will wait ’til the motor is in place, as it will have to removable if I ever have to remove the motor (God forbid!!!) I’d be interested with any input from any folks out there about the deck “design”. Take all comers. (see Customer Photos)
SKI KING / Gary Rule / Australia / grule@optusnet.com.au / 9-25-04: Hi I’m building the Ski King and am very happy with the progress. I have developed some “excel” spreadsheets to help calculate the radius of curves required to keep this craft looking sleek. It would be great to hear from anyone else buliding a ski boat to share ideas.
SKI KING / Richard / Norfolk, UK / Spac56@aol.com / 8-18-05: I started building the Ski King this week. What a pain not to start with full size drawings, but have made good progress this week. First 3 frames glued up, should have all frames finished in the next 2 days. I am using American white oak for frames, Braz mahogany for the dash. More to follow.
SKI KING / Marijn van Roode / Eindhoven, The Netherlands / Info@freshgrooves.nl / 12-21-09: Just started! All frame members are CNC cut. (See Customer Photos)
SKI KING / Greg Phelan / Melbourne, Australia / gphelan@smigroup.com.au / 12-21-09: Building the Ski King – extended by 10% with a curved transom. Building at The Wooden Boat Centre in the Docklands, Melbourne, Australia. I have just turned it over and will start on the engine install next.
SKI TOW / Dan Crawford / decrawford@black-hole.com / 6-05-00: Finished boat. Putting on hardware and hope to launch this weekend. I can’t wait. I had fun building this boat. From Minnesota “Land of 10,000 Lakes”. 4-15-03: I launched my Ski tow in July of 2000. I had a great time building it, and I think it looks great. I am very proud of it. I built the windsheild frame out of mahogony. The top decking is mahagony also. I wanted it to look like a older wooden runabout, and from the comments I get at the boat launch I think I succeeded.
SKI TOW / Greg Morrell / gregmor101@aol.com / 6-14-02: Nearly done!. Having loads of fun building Skitow. 10-14-02: Well its finished!. It looks good and runs great. Some specs. 860 LBS. Ready to run less people. 1961 Mercury 700 full gear shift (70 h.p.).Planes at 18 knots with 3 adults, 1 kid & 2 small dogs. Tops out at 35 with same load. Cruises like a caddy at 25. Would probably run 40 with less people but there were always people wanting a ride or to go fishing. Took 1 1/2 years to build. Some late nites, long week ends & some tense moments, but when I took the cover off and put it in the water (and it floated) it was worth all the work. Thanks for the great plans, help & nice hardware. (see Customer Photos)
SKI TOW / Mark Hudson / Hopkins, MN / mark.hudson@childrenshc.org / 10-14-04: Launched my Ski Tow in July 2003. Had a great time building it. Would be happy to have my address posted in the registry. The entire boat is laminated with 1/8th inch mahogany. The deck is 1/8 inch mahogany with thickened and tinted epoxy filling the spaces left between the boards. (see Customer Photos)
SNEAK BOX / Curt Schoenrock / email address not valid 4-10-03 / 1-15-99: Completed construction of Sneak Box on 27 Dec 98. Powered by 9.5 Evinrude.
SNEAK BOX / John Cottenham / jacduck@jacducks.com / 9-24-99: Ordered Frame kit, fastening kit 8-2-99, completed early September 99. Built without any hitches and “look at the pics, it is stable”. 4-10-03: The sneaker has hunted 4 years. Also built Scull Boat(See Customer Photos)
SNEAK BOX / Larry Huggins / lhandbh@charter.net / 5-26-05: I have almost completed the Sneak Box. As soon as I attach the top decking, I’ll cover the boat with fiberglass; attach the motor board, keel, and grassing rails; and paint it. It is the seventh boat I have built and was one of the easiest. I completed your Duck Boat in three weeks back in 1984 and have used it ever since.
SPIRIT / Stefan Storck / Germany / stefanstorck@web.de / 1-1-01: In 1998 we started work on the 39′ feet cutter “Spirit”. The welding work is finished, the hull is already PU-coated, rudder and engine are installed. At present the interior structure, cabin superstructure and cockpit are under construction. I’m interested in contact with like-minded amateur-boatbilders worldwide. 5-20-03: It’s still at work and I hope to finish it in 2003. The rig is ordered and joinery is almost completed.
5-21-08: Added photos of completed Spirit “Tamtam” starting the season 2008 in the new Baltic Sea marina, Boltenhagen, Germany. The boat looks, runs and performs great. (See Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Scott Hansen / Scott.a.hansen@jci.com / 8-21-98: Frames 1, 2 cut, ready to assemble. 9-25-98: Frames and transom on jig, sheers and chines installed. Fairing. 2-22-99: Bottom finished & varnished, needs one more coat. Deck beams/strong backs installed, ready to paint inside and install decking. 4-13-03: I completed the Squirt, however, I didn’t take any pictures before I sold it. It has a new home and is getting lots of use.
SQUIRT / Gary Baker / email address not valid 4-10-03 / 10-3-98: Bought frame kit August 98. Ready to turn over- framed & bottom planked. 10-27-98: Final encapsulating coat (3) drying. Steering pulleys,wiring installed, deck filled and faired. Inside painted. Ready for canvas decking and outside paint. 12-8-98: Boat done on trailer, less windshield glass, seat cushions. Motor and wiring installed today. Winter delaying sea trails ’til late April. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Scott Floyd / Scott.Floyd@aimco.com / 3-22-99: Starting to build frames, increasing length 10%. 7-18-01: It has been a long time due to a new addition to the family but I finally got to launch the Glen-L Squirt. It was a lot of fun even though the performance of my 25hp Johnson was not quite as I thought it would be. You definitely get a little wet in this boat. Thank you Glen-L for great plans and a fun little boat. 4-10-03: I am currently rebuilding my squirt. I wanted to convert it to a jet ski engine so I had to extend the back end of the boat about 1 foot. After doing that, I found where some water had leaked in on the bottom and so I had to replace just about the entire bottom. I should have everything put back together and repainted by the summer. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Joe Marshall / doufly@earthlink.net / 6-98: purchased frame kit, stored it from 6/98 till 1/20/01, including two moves. 1/20/01 built building form. Over the next week, I attached the frames to the form, assembled the breasthook, stem, and attached to frame #2. 1/30/01 I have purchased some 1″ mahogany in approximately 11″ widths that I will rip today for the keel, sheer, chines, and battens. 2-6-01 Got lumber ripped, Keel installed. I am having problems with the sheers breaking, I may have to build a steam box. 4-13-03: The Squirt is coming along in, well… spurts! I can only work irregularly on it but since the last update have made good progress and will update the registry soon.
SQUIRT / Carl Ketchum / woou@adelphia.net / 4-7-01: Just glued frames. Increasing cockpit length 6″. 7-7-02: Just put the chines in today July 8. Here is some advice.
1.Work with 4 chines, not 2. I built a steam box from plans found at duckworksmagazine.com for $10. I steamed two pieces of yellow poplar for one hour. They bent rather easily, but have pulled away from the frame #1. I will have to fill it in with epoxy. It would be a lot easier if I had put the chines on in two layers.
2. DO NOT trim the transom end of the chine until you have fastened the stem and frames. No matter how well the chines fit before I expoxied them, they came out 1/4″ short when it came time to glue.
3. Bevel, Bevel, Bevel
4. Information on the steam box can be found athttp://www.messingaboutinboats.com/archives/mbissuefebruary01.html. My thanks to the author, Jack Dice. Note that I used double wall pipe, not the triple wall he recommended.
SQUIRT / Chris Chadwick / whistlerfl@yahoo.com / 7-4-01: I have just started building Squirt. Right now I am looking over the blueprints and begining to build the strongback. 4-10-03: We have named our boat “Sassy” and she is coming along just fine. I teach a high school vocational arts course and we build strip plank canoes, stitch and tape skiffs, lapstrake sailing dinghies, and of course we are building Squirt. We started last year and are now just waiting for the motor (a 25hp) to arrive so we can install the hardware and button her up on the outside. My students are getting excited to see her done and to test drive it.
SQUIRT / Simon Woodhams / UK / simon@arrowmill.co.uk / 7-30-01: Started in February 01. Hull & Deck covered, turning it back over next week to glass hull. I’m hoping to get it finished before the end of the summer. Need ideas on finishing the cockpit & hardware. 4-15-03: I’ve finished the hull, fibreglassed it & it’s awaiting painting. The project has been on hold for about a year now – doing lots of other things with motorcycles. Soon as the weather improves (not long now!) I’ll get it painted & right it.
SQUIRT / Dan Schmock / email address not valid 4-10-03 / 8-25-01: Started project, frames and transom pieces built and ready to start building the form. 10-24-01: Framing and planking went smoothly, chines were a bit tricky to bend in and required a little patience. I have the boat completely primed and the bottom painted, using a HVLP sprayer with great results. Now working on the cockpit and deck details. 3-18-02: The boat is nearly complete, still needs windshield, seats and a few more coats of varnish. Also waiting for some warm weather for the maiden voyage. (See Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Ralph Watkins / rwatkins@ync.net / 10-02-01: Cutting and assembling frames. 4-13-03: Project is comming along slowly. Got a new baby now and am in grad school, so not much time to work on it.
SQUIRT / Len Sandok / Bloomington, Minnesota / lsandok@aol.com / 12-6-01: I recently received my frame kit and have progressed to the point where I am about to bend the chines and sheers. This is my first attempt at boatbuilding, and I have made mistakes along the way, but I have been able to correct or compensate for them. Most importantly, I am enjoying this project. 4-20-03: No only did I finish the project on time, I finished it on schedule! I didn’t keep to the budget, but that is okay. My goal was to finish it in time for the 4th of July boat parade on Prior Lake in Minnesota last year. I made it on time, and it created quite a stir as it was the only wooden and homemade boat! It was a great winter project, now if I could only convince my wife to let me build a bigger boat, I would sell my fiberglass boat!
SQUIRT / Skeet Phillips / Springfield, Oregon / sktph10@hotmail.com / 1-8-02: I now have the frame pieces cut-out and ready to assemble frames. This weekend will probably build jig and jig up the frame work. I found some aircraft spruce for the chine battens but will be building transom out of ash and then use Spanish cedar for the rest of the frames.
SQUIRT / Michael Dawson / Toronto, Ontario, Canada / mwdpwd@hotmail.com / 4-26-02: Received kit last Friday. Still building the frame to assemble boat on. Taking my time to insure I have all angles right and centered. Can’t wait until it starts to look like a boat under construction not just an expensive pile of wood. Hope to have the keel and chines on this weekend. 5-6-02: Have finally finished building form and have frames on and level etc. Used my car jack to support the transom which helped to get the 12 degree angle (thanks to the idea from another builder who has a page with a link from this site). Keel and bottom is on, hope to chine and shear later this week. 6-20-02: Getting close now. About ready to put on decking. Was considering not having stronback in bow and keeping space open and more room for gear, kids etc but decided against. Ordered a steering wheel and drum thru Ebay but not quite what I wanted (and it is seized up with rust) a costly lesson for me I guess. Have located another steering wheel and am waiting for steering parts then can deck it. Am going away early July so hope to have it flipped back and one coat of fiberglass on it before I go. Hoping for August 1 launch. 9-22-02: I’m done. I finished the boat for the second week in August. I had several tests I was hoping it would pass and it did. It floated, it didn’t leak, it didn’t flip over backwards or sink from behind when I put the motor on it, and most importantly IT PLANED. This boat is very buoyant. I can stand on the side at the back and it stays upright. There is lots of room on the front. We sit up there and fish. I didn’t have any handling problems. I used a fin on the bottom, which may have helped, but it adds 4 inches to the bottom that can make launching, storing and towing on a trailer a little harder. Go to a furniture refinishing shop to get your foam for your seats, the place I went to, custom cut my foam to fit my plywood. I started my project in April and finished the second week of August. It started a few hours here and there but I really wanted it done for August so at the end I was working pretty much every night on it. I’m glad I spent a lot of time on the bottom of the boat. I think the work there comes out in the ride. The area I could have spent more time on was in the finishing. I could have sanded a lot more of the fiberglass. The hardest part to sand was the sides and it shows as you get close to it. I also just painted it white so it is king of boring. Maybe a better paint job for next year. 4-13-03: Email address valid (See Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Art Spinella / Bandon, Oregon / cnwmr@msn.com / 6-6-02: Received the plans and frame kit about a month ago (May, 2002). I spent a fair amount of time pouring over your web site to better understand what I’d gotten myself into. (Built a Rob Roy some years ago, a picture of which you have on your site, but this obviously is significantly different.) I’ve read builder notes and viewed Squirt assembly sites. My woodworking experience has helped tremendously. For example, rather than a single or two-piece-laminate for the chine and sheers, I’ve used three pieces of Douglas-fir cut down to lattice thickness. It is easily bendable and quite strong when epoxy glue is applied liberally between the pieces. They bent to the proper angle against the stem with little difficulty and a bit more precision than trying to use a single stick of mahogany. A snap chalk-line tool has helped identify areas that need to be faired. I hopefully will install side and bottom planking with a week or so. 06-13-02: Just completed fitting the bottom. Used about 300 or so bronze boat nails and screws as well as a fair amount of Poxy Grip. It looks like a boat! Continue (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Mark Kogut / mskogut@kogutelectric.com / 8-22-02: I just rec’d my Squirt frame fit and built the building form last night. 4-21-03: Work has just began to pick-up again after a long cold winter here in the North East. Boat has sides and bottom and much of the interior is done. Working out the decking now. Dash, seats, throttle, windshield brackets, steering, gas tank, motor, trailer, lifting eyes, and all other misc. hardware worked out and coming together. Rec’ my fiberglass kit a few weeks ago and plan to start soon. Planning on a June launch.
SQUIRT / John Gage / Email address no longer valid 10-19-04 / 9-12-02: This SQUIRT is true to the name since it is powered by a 300 cc Kawasaki jet ski engine and jet drive. I made the boat 11 feet long and reversed the angle of the transom to simulate the old barrel backs. It runs out @ 30 mph and draws a crowd where ever I go. We love it. I have seen some questions on jet drive installs on your pages and I will be happy to share the method I used to retro-fit the jet ski drive system into my little runabout. 4-10-03: My Squirt project was completed about a year ago in May. It has worked out great with the retrofit jet ski engine and drive installation. The jet ski engine has so many advantages. They are marine ready, they all have electric start, the oil is injected automatically and I have a charging system for on board perks like a radio and some day, lights. The greatest advantage I think is that there is no prop under the thing so my small children can stand by it on the shore in very little water. I would recommend the jet conversion to any one who can find a good deal on a jet ski engine, and is willing to think through the necessary steps needed to make the system fit and work properly in the boat. Thank you for asking. The pictures in customer photos have sparked a lot of interest in this type of retrofit fit for the Squirt plan. I have tried to help those who ask with a description of the steps I used to plan for the job. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / C. Franklin Canterbury / Scott Depot, WV / cfcbury@citynet.net / 5-2-03: Built building form. Cut out all parts for the Transom and Frames 1 and 2.
SQUIRT / Graham Knight / Shepperton, England / studio7@ntlworld.com / 8-17-03: The frames are now on the building jig, keel and stem are fitted, and the chines go on today (in 2 laminations). I’ll also be sawing the rest of the timber ready for the sheers and floor battens. I made the decision to lengthen the boat to 11′, and I’ve done this by increasing the frame spacing by 10%. 8-19-03: As of this morning I now have all the floor battens, chines, and sheers fitted. I decided to fit the sheers in three laminations instead of two, the 1/2″ thick Douglas-Fir that I used for the chines (2 laminations) was still quite hard to bend, and trying to persuade thicker 5/8″ strip around a much tighter curve was obviously going to be very difficult. Stripped to about 7/16″ it became very pliable and conformed easily, it took a little longer to glue up but still only about 30 minutes per side. Incidentally my wood came in 10′ lengths, 12′ being more expensive so I had to join it. I did this with an 8:1 ratio scarf joint glued with epoxy, I joined the lengths for the first (inner) laminations before fitting, subsequent laminations were joined in situ. I used the same method for the chines. I staggered the joints in each lamination to avoid getting a flat spot if they all coincided. I’ll start fairing this evening and have bought a cheap power planer for this job, hopefully it will make it easier as there is a lot of wood to remove! 9-2-03: This morning I finally finished fairing, it takes a long time to do it right even with a power planer, although I have probably been a bit too picky and done a better job than strictly neccessary, given the good gap filling properties of epoxy! I found I needed to add an extra strip of wood to the chine forward of frame #1, otherwise there was insufficient wood to get a flat surface for the side planking to glue to. This may be my fault as I had problems attaching the chines to the stem piece, there is no info on correct positioning so I estimated, got it wrong first time and had to reposition them, they look good now but still this problem of insufficient wood to fair it right. If the weather stays good (I’m working outdoors on my patio) I’ll start planking in the next day or two. 9-9-03: I have the side planking fitted and trimmed now, I’ll double check and do a little more fairing work if neccessary before the bottom goes on. Bottom skins should be cut today and I hope to have them fitted by the weekend if the weather plays ball. 9-12-03: My boat has a bottom, turning it over tomorrow, exciting! 9-16-03: The boat is now right way up. Sunday morning I fitted the framing for the foredeck, and yesterday I sprung the coamings into place, not an easy job single handed as they were pretty stiff, if I did another I’d consider laminating these from two thinner pieces. Today I fitted the dash and the aft deck beams, and I made some changes from the plans here. As my boat is a foot longer I have some extra space to play with, so I moved the seat and the dash 4″ further forward, and installed two extra aft deck beams to frame a large hatch, the petrol tank will be completely hidden and accessible via the hatch. There will also be some stowage space in there too, and I intend to fit a car style remote cable release and a gas strut to raise the hatch cover. 10-19-03: Hi, it’s been a few weeks since my last confession…oops sorry…last update! All the plywood decking is done, the hull has been sheathed in glass/epoxy and it’s had a coat of epoxy primer. After sanding it was very smooth and needs no further work before painting, other than a second coat of primer to cover the patches where I sanded through to the resin. I’m going to finish it in two pack epoxy. The motor is a 1958 Johnson Seahorse 18hp which I was very lucky to find in England, engines of that type and age are very difficult to find over here especially in good condition as this one is. 11-15-03: After a lot of hard work, wet sanding, compounding, waxing and polishing I’ve finally got a finish on my epoxy paintwork that I’m happy with, when the sun shines on my upturned hull it’s dazzling! The next step is to fit an oak keel strip, then make and fit some fender/spray rails and get the hull back up the right way. As it’s too dark and cold to work in the evenings after work now, I’ve been spending some time in the workshop making some of the fittings, I’ve almost completed a set of Mahogany and polished Aluminium windshield brackets, and have cleaned up an old cable steering drum that I picked up cheap on eBay. I’ve bought a lot of fittings on eBay, including some nice Chris Craft style teardrop cleats and fairleads (chocks to you!), a pair of chrome framed step pads, and a nice NOS vintage Sea King steering wheel. It’s going to look great with all these nice dress up parts on it. 8-2-04: Well it’s been a while since I sent any updates on my Squirt progress, I guess I’ve just been to busy working on the boat whilst trying to fit in earning a living and working on my house too! But she’s finally finished, yesterday we had a big BBQ with around 100 guests, friends, family, neighbours, workmates, to celebrate the completion. As you can see from the attached photos the boat has turned out quite nicely, there are still a few minor bits and pieces I want to attend to, and I expect I’ll find a few more fittings are needed such as a pair of lift handles on the transom. But she’s ready for the water, the motor is all finished and has been test run, now I just need a means of getting her into the water. I’ll send some more photos and a full report. Huge thanx to all at Glen-L, the Boat Builder Forum members, and other contributors too numerous to list!(See Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Terry McIntyre / Morgan Hill CA / trmamm@jps.net / 1-25-04: I cut out the first frame parts for my Squirt last night, so I guess I qualify for the registry now. I’m a retired engineer and I’m building the boat as a project with my grand kids and nephews. This will be my 3rd Glen-L boat (the first two were a Tuffy in ’62 and a Rebel in ’71 – yeah, it’s been a while!). I decided to do the frames in clear select Douglas fir. This decision was made largely on the fact that my lumber supplier (Southern Lumber in San Jose, CA) had some absolutely gorgeous stock, at about a third the cost of mahogany. The planking will be mahogany, and power will be a 550 Kawasaki jet-ski conversion. 3-1-04: I haven’t done much woodworking in the last couple of months, but a lot of design engineering! Turns out putting a jet drive in a Squirt is a fairly complex proposition. In December, I cut out and assembled the stem, breasthook, and both frames. The transom is cut out but not assembled due to uncertainties in what needed to be done for the jet drive modifications. I found and purchased a well-worn but good running jet ski (a 1982 550 Kawasaki) off e-Bay. Then I completely disassembled the jet ski to get all the “good stuff” out, and measured all the critical dimensions. I also purchased the service manual for the ski from Kawasaki. This gave me a wealth of good information – including things like the jet pump thrust (340 lb) that I needed for the boat structural modifications. Unfortunately, the manual didn’t provide things like bolting patterns, these I traced onto heavy paper, then transferred them to 1/4 plywood to act as templates. The overall drive train length is 57 inches – too long to put in the boat without lengthening it outside of the Glen-L recommended range. For this reason I decided to mount the pump on a bracket outside the transom. This allows me to lengthen the boat to 11′-6″, and keep everything aft of Frame #1. The primary structural modification is to eliminate both the keel and inboard battens, aft of frame number 1. These are replaced with engine stringers fabricated from 2×4 stock. Also, I added a half frame, that I’m calling a “bearing bulkhead” that supports the drive shaft, and forms the form of the jet pump suction tunnel that runs down the center of the aft section of the boat. 4-29-04: I’ve now reached the point where I can actually start boat building! As in indicated in my last update, I decided it would be a good idea to “prototype” everything aft of Frame #1 with my motor mount design arrangement, just to make sure everything worked. I bought some inexpensive lumber, and built the motor stringers, engine mounts, and bearing bulkhead. Then using the “real” frame #1 and transom, I clamped the whole thing together to see if it worked. This turned out to be one of the best things I ever did, as while my design was “close” it wasn’t quite “close enough”. Based on the Kawasaki information that I have, the tolerance on the engine location and alignment, relative to the drive shaft, is a fraction of a millimeter. I order to accomplish this, I’ve imposed a tolerance criteria of 1/32 of an inch on all the critical components in the engine drive train framework. This will allow me to shim the engine to the required accuracy after the boat is complete. I had to make a few changes to my original design, and then fabricated up the “real” parts from clear select Douglas-fir. There are 3 “additional” parts that are required for the “inboard” version of a Squirt – two motor stringer/motor mount/transom knee assemblies, and the bearing bulkhead that will support the drive shaft. Once I had all the parts finished, I did one final “dry fit” just to make sure it worked. Everything fit perfectly! The “frame kit” is temporarily set up on the building form. I’m not quite happy with the rigidity of the form yet, so I’m going to add some additional bracing, and I still need to add the support framework for the jet tunnel. This is needed to hold the location of the bearing bulkhead to within the required 1/32″ tolerance. Everything is taking about twice as long as I thought it would, but I have to admit that the intellectual exercise of designing the inboard engine supports has been a lot of fun. Next update will be when I get the frame complete and start to fair it up. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Capt WeemO (Bob Weems) / Vero Beach, FL /captweemo@bellsouth.net / 1-26-04: I just got the frame kit and built the jig this weekend. Purchased straps from local hardware store that work great to secure frames to jig. Going to Rivera Beach, FL to pick up supplies. Making steamer for the chines out of 3″ X 12′ PC Pipe and hose bib in middle to connect hose to steam the chines. Do the same with the fairing strips. Getting excited, my 3 1/2 year old grandson has his own tool box and can’t wait to help. When I told him we were going to name the boat after his nix name of “Post Man” he flipped, “you name it after me’!” Yes sir little man. 3-18-04: I am at the point of priming the inside hull with Algrip. Deck framing is complete, after interior priming is complete, March 20th, I will flip the hull to fill, sand and fiberglass. Hull will be painted Jet Black Algrip by following weekend. This project was started because I have always wanted to build a boat since I was a child, now that I am 52 I am building it for my grandson’s “Post Man” 4th birthday May 16th, 04. I Know he is young by Florida Law to operate the boat but Pop’s and Nanny can have a blast on it with him. This project has been a dream come true…thanks Glen-L. Looking forward to a bigger challenge. 4-14-04: 6:09 PM April 12-2004 Boat construction complete, YA! Now the fun part paint and varnish, varnish and more varnish 15 coats on the deck. Custom cushions sweet! My delivery date for my grandson’s 4th birthday party May 16th will be easy to make. I can’t keep him out of it now. I don’t know how I’ll be able to keep him off the wet paint. Looking at the Rivera next! Thank Brian for all your help. 5-29-04: “Post Man” launched…WOW! With new 25 Merc. and being broken in running very rich she was clocked at 36 MPH… with my wife and I in the boat ( 300 LB’s total). I figure after break in period of 10 hrs, she should do 38 to 40 MPH. With the SKEG on the bottom she performced beautifully. Stopped by everyone on the Indian River, photo’s taken, meet great people on the water. Thanks again Glen-L. Captain WeemO’ (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Pete Weiss / Seattle, WA / tobaone@yahoo.com / 3-1-04: I started my Squirt yesterday! This will be my first boat and my first boatbuilding project. My expectations are that it will cost me no more than $400 complete, go 60+ mph, take only 3 easy weekends to finish, win any boat show contest I feel like entering, sell for at least $50,000 if I were ever to give it up, and of course be absolutely flawless… In reality on a scale of 1 to 10 I’m an 11.75 on the intimidation scale. Seems like the learning curve is going to be huge. Lots of staring at the plans with a smart look on my face. I’m going to add 10% in length, and going for an outboard rather than a jet ski engine (which shoots the intimidation scale to an even more embarrassing level).
SQUIRT / Nate Brown / PP-Marine@comcast.net / 3-5-04: Finished, with a 650 Kawasaki jet. See: WebLetter 55. See my Missile in the Old Boat Club.
SQUIRT / Ron Shady / SSHADEERON@aol.com / 4-26-04: Please feel free to add my address to your Project Registry. I am happy to help anyone out that I can, and have received many calls over the past few years. If they are calling regarding their first time build, and with not too much wood working experience, I usually recommend they purchase the frame kit, as I did. I think the frame kit helps build the confidence needed by the first-time boat builder. Let me know if I can assist you or potential customers regarding the Squirt…I am always pleased to give them a good reference in Glen-L’s products and assistance, along with encouraging words. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / David McAdam / County Monaghan, Ireland / david@sum-it.biz / October 2003: Bought Sapele mahogany (African) for the frame members, chines, battens and sheers. Bought 1/4 inch BS1088 mahogany marine plywood. Ordered 1 gallon West Systems Epoxy.
November 2003: Cut out and assembled the frames, stem and transom. I used a jigsaw, spokeshave and hand plane to do most of this. Constructed the building form and fixed the frames, transom and stem in position. I used bronze carraige bolts where bolts were required (sent to Ireland from Glen-L), I counterbored the holes and then filled the holes with epoxy/microfibres.
December 2003: Fitted the chines, sheers and battens in place. I had to scarf-joint the chines and sheers; I found it very simple to do, just using a hand plane. I temporarily nailed them to a flat table while the epoxy was curing and removed the nails afterwards. I used bronze screws to fix the longitudinal members to the frames. I spent the Christmas holidays fairing the framework with a hand plane (I found a power-plane hard to control). I had to add extra thickness to the chine near the stem because I originally didn’t have enough twist in the chine.
January 2004: Fitted the side and bottom planking. I used an epoxy/microfibre mixture and made fillets on the inside of the hull from the epoxy that squeezed out. I used ordinary steel screws (chipboard screws) to hold the planking in position while the epoxy cured, then I removed all of the screws.
February 2004: Flipped the hull right-side-up. Fitted the deck beams and coaming sides. I extended the cockpit backwards about 6 inches because I am 6’2″. Bought sapele and maple strips so I can apply a nice planked deck.
March 2004: Completed deck framing including the radiused fillets which I drew out patterns for on autocad so I could get them perfectly tangential to the coaming, dash and rear deck beam. Faired the deck framework and filled and sanded all of the screw holes in the interior of the hull. In my opinion, sanding the interior is the most tedious job so far.
April 2004: Continued sanding the interior. Fitted three supports for the seat bottom, one on the keel and one on each outer batten. Applied three coats of epoxy to the interior (wet sanding with a sponge block & water in between each coat).
May 2004: Bought a 1998 15hp four-stroke yamaha electric start outboard engine. It looks massive on the boat but it weighs 99lbs which I hope will be ok on the transom. I painted two coats of gray garage floor paint on the interior. It contains some sort of anti-slip grit. I also have begun work on a trailer for the squirt, based on info in your “How to Build Boat Trailers” book.
Next update will be when the boat is launched I have set up a webpage to display photos of the build as it happens http://www.sum-it.biz/squirt/website/ Thank you for your accurate plans, informative website and invaluable boatbuilder connection forum. They have all made building the squirt a greatly enjoyable and rewarding project.
SQUIRT / Steven Price / Dayton,OH / sprice@toast.net / 10-4-04: The frame kit arrived, and have purchased all of the wood for the rest of the framing, except for the deck and hull planking. I have just finished putting the building form together, and getting ready to place the frame kit on it! 4-18-05: Finally good weather. I have been able to assemble all frame members, chines and sheers. I was indeed able to to make the sheers out of one piece, with the help of a little steam. The wood bent no problem. Glad I was able to do this without laminating two parts together. Waiting on Mohogany sheeting for hull now. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Johnny and Garo / Northern Ireland / garo_mcc@hotmail.com / 10-22-04: Just sending you an update on building the glen-l squirt, it has been hard work up until now, got the steering in, just need the remotes another update soon. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Peter Stofmeel / St Marys, NSW, Australia / pstofmeel@optusnet.com.au / 7-28-05: Purchased Blue Prints in February and have cut frames and transom. Built form 10% longer and am fitting chines and sheers. First chine fitted in one piece, great, fitted second chine only to have it break, very frustrating. First of many lessons to be learnt the hard way so I now know the advantage of laminating. 10-4-05: I have finished the frames, chines and sheers and am planking the the sides and bottom, it’s starting to take shape, but is very slow. I am learning the great qualities of epoxy, it’s ease of use and it’s tremendous strength, it’s a wonderful product. 12-12-05: I can’t believe that I have been planking the hull, fairing, filling and undercoating for the past two months. I have turned the hull and just finished framing the deck beams, coamings, strongbacks etc. I am now ready to plank the deck after the steering gear is fitted. The form can now be seen fully in all it’s beauty and what beautiful form it has. I hope to have the Squirt finished for the new year but will be slowed down some because the old motor I was given is well, old. It has a few things wrong and also needs to be modified for forward control. It’s summer now in Aus. so I hope to have it up and running early to mid January 2006.
SQUIRT / Marc LOBERT / France, Martinique / marc.lobert@bull.net / 8-30-05: Installing deck. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Paul McMillan / Ajax, Ontario, Canada / pmcmillan86@rogers.com / 9-1-05: I am building the Squirt and have completed all frames, installed the chines but am having a very hard time bending the sheers. They are mahogany. I need to ask around for tips on steaming versus soaking the wood in hot water or… (Many builders recommend laminating from thinner material.) Hi, my name is Paul McMillan and I live in Ontario, Canada. 8-10-07: I have been building a Squirt since April of 2005, when I purchased plans from you. I am just beginning to apply the plywood on the top side of the boat ( yes, it’s been taking some time!).
SQUIRT / Mark H. Howes / East Taunton, MA / mhowes@mysticmillwork.com / 10-1-05: Parts Cut Out I started today October 1st, 2005. My goal is to be complete by March. I’ve read that this project takes about a month and a half as a part time project. I am going to cut all the parts and build the form first, then begin frame assembly. 3-28-06: My original target of being complete is shot, I was hoping to finish by March, however I have not been able to work on this project for a while but I’m back and am in no rush to finish. I milled all the stock according to the materials list, built all the frames, made the strong back. I work for a cabinet shop so materials are easy to come by. I used Mahogany for the battens, chines, sheers, stem and keel. For the frames I used a 3/4″ mahogany stave core plywood w/ 1/4″ marine ply gusset plates, they are very strong and I intend on glassing them later. I was able to get my hands on some sapele for the transom and the dash (very nice to work with, pretty, and looks like, and has the characteristics of Mahogany). I have the frames with the keel and floor battens assembled. I have also set in the chines, however, the bend was tough from frame #2 to the bow. I had read that splitting and laminating is an option to help the bend. I split the chine from the bow to back between frame #1 and #2 with a band saw and backed it off the saw, fastened at the stern and after frame #2 smearing a good wood glue between the split and bending into place then clamping the lamination together. All is well and I have proceeded to the sheers, I have split them completely from end to end and layed them in 1/2 a thickness at a time to make the bend, it went great. Just remember to alternate sides at each layer to keep every thing true and make sure that the glue has full coverage. I am ready to start fairing the chines and sheers. 10-14-07: SPLASHED THE BOAT, However I have not written regarding the status of my project under construction since March of 06. After fairing the chines I applied “Okoume” marine ply to the bottom and sides to construct the shell of the hull. Laying cardboard over the framework helped in sizing my panel stock. This went well and after my hours of fairing and sanding the hull was ready for fiberglass. I purchased on e-Bay a 60 yd roll x 54″ wide 6 oz cloth for $60.00. This is a steal, so I advise all builders to do this… cloth is expensive. I glassed and sanded, glased and sanded, I have (3) layers on the hull and just epoxied the interior. I flipped the boat for deck framing and covering. I purchased a teak and holly panel as seen in the photos, I had it cut on the companys CNC router along with the perimeter mahogany paneling, it worked out great. I worked on the trim for quite while and I have a solution for anyone who wishes to have the trim along the gunwal as I do, this is not a bent or steamed piece of trim but cut curved. I actually laid and taped a paper template to the side hull and traced the top edge of the boat. I pulled the template back off the boat laid it flat and the piece of wood is actually curved. I used a wider piece of 1″ thick Mahogany and cut the board on a curve and sanded the curve smooth, I then split the board on a band saw to make two pieces. I installed the both of them in about 15 minutes, this saves alot of time and worked perfectly. After trim was complete, I worked on the seat and center band behind the seat. I also had a 6″ x 10″x1/4″ Bronze skeg cut for the bottom on the CNC as well. I set in a Ebony, Bloodwood, and Holy decorative inlay band around the deck panel and painted and varnished the boat. I bought a new trailer for $530.00, and it was ready to power up. I have (2) motors an Evinrude 18 hp and an Evinrude 30 hp. I have not tried the 30 yet, but will in the future. I am currently using the 18 hp. With just me, it runs top speed @ 27 mph+, with (2) adults we topped out @25 mph. This is the 18 hp! The boat handles extremely well, corners great and JUMPS out of the water when you hit the throttle hard. I also installed in-hull running lights for night running. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Tormod Magnesen / Øygarden (Bergen), Norway /Zildjiansplash@hotmail.com / 11-9-05: I’m a seventeen year old boy who has always dreamed about building my own boat. So I purchased the plans, and started to build the Squirt in April 05. I have attached a couple pictures of my Squirt in this email. -Soon to be ready to fibreglass and I really look forward to epoxy it up! (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Greg Kuhaneck/ g.kuhaneck@verizon.net / 7-5-06: Started building the frames during the winter and from the start planned on using a jet drive. After the frames were complete and I found a jet ski on ebay. Nothing like a trip across the northern US in winter to pick up a jet ski frozen to the ground in a field for adventure. Several warm days was all I needed to tear apart the ski and start cutting up the old hull. Still too cold to start working in the garage so I started rebuilding the jet ski motor and jet drive. I hope spring comes soooooon. In May I took some time off work and built the frame to start putting the boat together. Set the breasthook, frames and transom out and then the fun began. Fitting 5 ft of engine and jet drive in a 3 ft space. I wanted as little of the pump sticking out of the transom as possible. The only solution was to stretch the boat. I built frame # 3 and changed the transom to more of a barrel back style. I read several books on boat design and hope that my plan works. If all goes well I should put the planking on the sides and bottom of the boat this week (July 4, 2006). This has been a bit of a learning experience, a lot of reading and some trial and error. One thing I have always liked about working with wood is that a saw, some glue and time you can always fix your mistakes. Like when I tried to bend the shears and crack, a cut here, some glue there and maybe a little steam this time. I’ll send in some photos but not until I know my design floats and handles well. Time to go make some saw dust.
SQUIRT / Drew Orr / Kitchener, Ontario, Canada / Drew_0rr@hotmail.com / 11-25-06: Starting the electrical before I put the top on.
SQUIRT / Ron Bonner / bonnerronald@bellsouth.net / 3-7-07: I’ve started my Squirt, not too far along but it’s going. 3-28-07: I have completed the paneling and have glassed the transom and bottom so far. Will send some pics later. thanks for plans, it’s been a fun project.(see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT (stretched) / Scott & Scotty Hudson / Arlington, TX / dsh.sr@sbcglobal.net / 3-24-07: I have FINALLY started on a boat project, the Squirt. I had ordered several plans from you in the past and at one point almost started the Tubby Tug, later I actually cut frame parts for a 1/4 scale JetCat. But, I never was really into it and neither of those efforts got very far. Today I cut out the parts for frame #1 for the Squirt. At first, I wasn’t sure why I suddenly had to start working on the boat project I had put off for so long. Someone else had to remind me: it’s the anniversary of my father’s death, and I guess that supplied the motivation I needed to start building an actual boat for my son, Scotty. Maybe I’ll name the boat after my Dad, we could call it the “Bobby Ray”… Thanks for all the e-mails, and newsletters, and for maintaining the Forum. 3-29-07: I just bought a sheet of 3/4” AB Fir Marine Plywood locally, and my initial box of supplies is due to be delivered this afternoon. I have finished cutting out all the lumber for the frames and will begin assembly tonite. I hope to finish cutting/assembling all frame parts this weekend and start on the building form next week. I’ll send photos after the frames are mounted on the form. 3-31-07: Finished assembling all the frames and laminated parts. The Forum has been VERY helpful in answering questions as they come up. Now I must clean out the garage to make space for the building form. 4-8-07: Finished assembling the building form, which turned into an interesting process. Had to adjust the design several times to allow for access to the knee and provide a couple of cutouts to allow the transom plywood to lay flat against the form. It is well-braced now, hardly moves at all and I haven’t attached the frames yet. Pictures coming soon.
SQUIRT / Rich / rich@pachecano.net / 5-16-07: Received frame kit 4/26/07. Completed building form, attached frames, stem, breasthook, transom. Working on attaching Keel.
SQUIRT / Sean B. Grady / Leesburg, VA / sbgrady@gmail.com / 7-7-07: Setting up the building jig and making initial construction preparations.
SQUIRT / Curtis McDaniel / Powder Springs, Georgia / ltgoshen@gmail.com / 8-18-07: I have just started building Squirt. I spent a week getting the shop in order, have built the strongback and have started cutting and assembling the frame parts. Its going to be fun.
SQUIRT / Trent Chapman / Bethania, Brisbane, Queensland Australia /trentc@adcoconstruct.com.au / 8-16-07: Received the plans and ordering the timber… oh and reading all the reference books!
SQUIRT / Rich Stabler / Poulsbo, Washington / stablerra@clearwire.net / 10-12-07: Well after about 14 months build time and gather materials along the way from e-bay and the great people at the local West Marine store. A few sea trials to get the motor running the way I want it I’m having a “BLAST”. This being my first attempt at building a boat I’ve learned a lot along the way. First if you’re after specific look add 25% to the build time and 50% to the cost. Would I do it again? “YOU BET”. I’ve never been one to accept praise for the things I’ve done but the comment I’ve received from the many people who’ve seen it sure makes the time spent in the shop all worth it. (see Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Kelly Morrison / St. Albert, Alberta, Canada / Ksmorrison@shaw.ca / 12-27-07: I have started on the Squirt. The frames are cut out of clear Douglas-fir and are ready for epoxy. The build is taking place in my heated garage as it can hit -35C in the winter.
SQUIRT / J. Kyzer / Centreville, AL / jkyzer@bellsouth.net / 1-13-08: Just getting started. Just finished cutting out major components, stem, transom, etc. Need to start construction of the building form next.
SQUIRT / Jeff Cobb / Baton Rouge, LA / jng012@hotmail.com / 1-28-08: Bought the plans for the Squirt in August 2007. Worked dilligently the first few weeks and got the frame together. Hardly worked on the boat at all between October and the end of the year. Got going on it again in January 2008. Just completed planking the sides and bottom on 1/27/08. Hope to complete all the puttying, sanding, fiberglass, and hull paint and turn the boat over by the end of February 2008.
10-15-09: I’m really pleased with the boat. It came out looking better than I’d ever imagined and the ride is sensational for a boat this small. I built the 11 foot stretched version. The decking is African Mahogany with Maple providing the contrasting stripes. I started the project in August 2007 and finished in May 2009.
I have a website for the project at jeffshomemadeboat.com (See Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Dan & Kyle Rom / Email removed / 4-1-08: My son (Kyle) and I (Dan) started on the Squirt back in November 2007. At first the project was overwhelming, but with the help of the Boat builders forum and a couple of books and a few e-mails we are moving along. We have over 50 hours in so far and have completed the transom, frames 1&2, stem and breastplate, and the transom knee. Currently we are working on the building form. Our email is (email removed) and our user name on the builder forum is Tbone. Kyle and I both play the trombone, but that’s another story. We are planning on attending the West Coast Gathering this May. Thanks to all who have helped and we will periodically update this registry.
SQUIRT / Greg & Brad Roy / Auckland, New Zealand / greg@tfproperty.co.nz / 5-14-08: Hi to the Glen-L team My last project was building the Barrelback “Bootlegger.” Now I and my 11 year old son Brad are building the Squirt as a father and son project. We commenced last year and in the weekend just gone, we turned the hull over. We plan to finish the boat over the winter in time for our Summer (starts in December down under). The frames are “Kauri,” a great local boatbuilding timber. The deck will be getting a full timber finish in Walnut/Mahogany/Kauri, which requires some small changes to the construction detail of the deck, and we have a 15HP Johnson outboard ready to go. Brad has picked a name “Gangster” which is in keeping with the outlaw theme and “Bootlegger”. The two boats should look good together, tied up on the jetty or blasting around the lake.
Also you may be pleased to hear that we have 2 other Glen-L boats in the family. Last year we bought a second hand Tiny Titan off Trademe (Trademe is New Zealand’s EBay) which I fitted an 8hp Yamaha on and this is the kids current boat. Also last year me and a mate bought a second hand Thunderbolt off Trademe. We did a lot of work on her last winter and had a great summer skiing behind her at the lake. It bought back memories of when I was an apprentice (a few years ago now) and the boss had a Thunderbolt which I fitted a 283 smallblock into for him (seems I have had a connection with Glen-L from way back). There can’t be that many Glen-L boats in New Zealand but we have 4 in our family – not bad I reckon.
I have sent in some photos of the Squirt plus the Thunderbolt “Thumpa” and the Tiny Titan “Screamin MeeMie”
11-13-08: I have made changes to the detail of the deck construction to allow for a fully varnished timber deck with Walnut sides (laminated squares) and walnut king-plank with stripes of Mahogany and white oak veneers over the ply deck. This raises the deck height a small amount but gives the desired effect. It also allows for more space for a belting. I will send further photos as I proceed with the veneers and hull painting. The plan is to have it complete for Christmas – that’s summertime here downunder.
12-7-08: First rough sanding of the deck completed, just a bit more fine sanding and then varnish. We may yet make it by Christmas.
1-9-09: Latest photo of the Squirt – taken about 6 hours ago after varnishing the deck – didn’t quite make Christmas but we will be launching any day.
(See Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Art Atkinson / Bloomfield Village, Michigan / sawdust.art@sbcglobal.net / 9-28-09: Plans and “Boatbuilding with Plywood” book ordered.
10-22-09: Bought African Mahogany at Armstrong Millworks.
10-30-09: Bought Okume and Russian Birch marine plywood at Public Lumber.
11-09: Built frames, transom, building form, located frames, stem, and set keel.
12-09: Cut and fit battens, stabilized frames on forms. Experimented with chine fitting and bending using pine.
Building a boat is a very fascinating, challenging and absorbing project. I’m enjoying learning a whole new woodworking category as well as learning about boats, outboards and boating. I often get lost in the customer photo area and really enjoy looking at what people have built. We’re taking a family vacation during the Holidays so the boat is on hold for awhile.
2-10: Chines/Shears and Fairing.
3-10: Plywood planked the hull.
4-10: Epoxied, surfaced, fiberglassed and sanded.
5-10: Painted the bottom.
6-7-10: Flipped the boat. See my Boat Build Blog. You might enjoy the “Flip It” verses to sing along to Devo’s “Whip It”.
SQUIRT / Geoff Stetzer / La Crosse, Wisconsin / Stetzer@aol.com / 12-29-09: I have cut out all the pieces. Have just finished putting on the stringers. I have been takng pictures all the way along. Im trying to get a group of my friends to also start building a Squirt. Been really happy and this project is moving along pretty quick..
SQUIRT / Leo Bolduc / Worcester, Massachusetts / leopjbolduc@hotmail.com / 1-21-10: I have all the templates made, the frame jig built, and the nails and screws.
SQUIRT / Simon Sutcliffe / supasimon@hotmail.com / 5-11-10: I’m building the Squirt. I increased the length by 10%. We are at the decking stage right now and we are building a gull-wing hatch for the back. We are leaving the transom natural. (See Customer Photos)
SQUIRT / Larry Madison / Seattle, Washington /Larry.madison@exeltransportation.com / 7-24-10: Building the form. Cutting out frame pieces.
8-2-10: I have the frames mostly glued together, and I’m almost ready to put them on the framing jig, and start to get this boat construction under way . . . You can view myblog. Lots of pictures. I’m very excited about this project.
SUPER SPARTAN / John Lucas / Beaverton, Oregon /johnpeggylucas@comcast.net / 3-20-11: BJust completed the frame today. Hope to begin the decking process in the next week or two. (See Customer Photos)
STARPATH 44 / James Logan / jlogan9125@aol.com / Started 4-4-99. 4-16-99: Building form is complete. 4-23-99: Frame 0 completed, 5-7-99: Completed Bulkhead A. 5-14-99: Bulkhead B and temporary form @ Station 2 are complete and installed on building form. 5-23-99: Five frames (including 3 Bulkheads) have been completed and installed on the building form. 5-28-99: Seven frames now completed and installed. 6-25-99: Nine frames completed and erected to date. 7-16-99: Stations 8 and 9 and frame/bulhead G in place. Now have 14 frames in place. 7-30-99: Stem and Bulkhead H complete and in place. 8-13-99: Fairing of all frames and stem complete. 9-3-99: Transom completed, on building form. Notches in transom are ready for longitudinals. 9-11-99: Ballast completed and on site. Rudder post machining completed and rudder tangs welded to rudder post. 9-17-99: Inner keel laminations complete (bonded and screwed). 10-12-99: Completed and installed 4 floor timbers at bulkheads. 11-25-99: Completed notches and laminations for the main sheer clamp (3 layers). 12-30-99: Faired-in sheer clamp to hull form. Bored keel bolt holes. Faired-in keel to hull form. Started cutting notches for longitudinal battens. 1-7-2000: Completed notches for eight of the frames plus transom. 1-14-00: Completed all notches in all frames. 1-20-00: Bored prop shaft hole through keel and engine room bulkhead. 2-10-00: Completed double laminations for six battens (3 each side of keel) which run from stem to the transom. 2-28-00: Completed and installed 3 more floor timbers. 3-20-00: Completed all 18 longitudinal battens. 4-16-00: Started laminating strap frames. Have bonded 4 of 16 layers on each strap frame. 4-21-00: Now have 8 of 16 layers bonded for each strap frame. 4-28-00: Completed and installed two sets of wedge inserts for the strap frames. 5-12-00: Completed 16 laminations of each strap frame. 5/23/00: Completed installation of raised sheer clamp. 6/1/00: Installed last two floor timbers at strap frames. Completed boring keel bolt holes. 6-9-00: Completed limber holes. Installed mast step girder. Completed chainplates. 7/1/00: Polished and bolted chain plates to strap frames. 7-13-00: Completed cutting out and shaping deadwood for keel appendage. Bored keel bolt holes through deadwood. 8-17-00: Started first planking. Cut, fit and fastened home first plank today. 10-19-00: Completed first layer of hull. 10-25-00: Started second lamination layer of hull. 1/3/2001: Completed second layer of hull lamination. 1-16-01: Started third hull lamination. 5-24-01: Completed lamination of hull layer 3. 7-6-01: Completed 4th layer of hull lamination. 7-19-01: Layer 4 completed. 8-10-01: Completed filling divots and sanding hull. Applied fiberglass cloth to transom. 8-16-01: Completed fibeglass layer on hull. 9-19-01: Completed building keel ballast appendage (deadwood) and rudder. 11-1-01: Completed construction of skeg. 11-23-01: Completed final fairing and prep of hull for painting. 1-8-02: Completed painting hull. 1-21-02: Hull is ready for turn-over. 1-25-02: Turned hull over and bolted on keel-ballast. 5-3-02: Installed water and fuel tanks. Started adding deck beams. 7-26-02: Completed engine mounts and installed engine. 10-15-02: Completed aft deck. 11-7-02: Completed fore deck. Both fore and aft decks are covered with fiberglass cloth. 4-2-03: Completed main cabin sole. Added main support beams for main cabin. Completed first layer (ceiling) for cabin top. 5-26-03: Completed cabin sides and top. 1-28-04: Completed cockpit sole and seat backs. Completed forward hatch. 6-18-04: Completed cockpit (including seat hatches), main hatch and aft hatch. Added skylight and hand rails on deckhouse. Added toe-rail on edge of aft deck. Constructed binnacle and installed compass and engine controls. 3-17-06: Interior is complete except for a few shelves and some varnishing. Completed application of non-skid on deck. Hull is faired and primed ready for bottom paint. Starting on rigging masts. Otherwise, ready for launch. 8-15-06: Successful launch on July 7. Stepped masts July 10-11. Began sea trials. (see Customer Photos-archives)
STARPATH 44 / Warren J. Kress / wk4652@aol.com / 5-26-99: Started building form April 15, 1999 and completed form May 20, 1999. completed station 0 and mounted on form May 24,1999. 5-27-99: Completed station 1 and 2 and mounted on form. Next working on bulkheads. 5-31-99: Stations 3 and 5 mounted on form. 6-14-99: Completed stations 6, 8, and 9 and mounted on form. 10-25-99:Complated bulkhead A and manufactured chain plates for sloop rig and stemhead fitting. 11-22-99: Have completed Bulkhead B. I would like to thank you for all for your support so far in my project. 12-5-99: Completed bulhead C. I estimate that it will be approx $10,000 to complete the hull and bulkheads. Hope to be ready to start planking in the spring. Can only work on it part time; hope to complete in 3 to 4 years. 2-15-00: Completed bulkheads D & E and mounted on form; bulkhead F half completed. 3-13-00: Completed bulkhead F anf G and mounted on building form. 4-22-00: Completed stem and mounted on frame. 7-6-00: Completed bulkhead H and mounted on frame; working on transom. 4-20-01: Completed transom, and floors for bulkheads c,d,e,f.
STARPATH 44 / Paul Malo / Nisku, Alberta, Canada / (Email address no longer valid 1-29-04) / 12-22-01: As of Dec. 22/01 finished hull and starting on deck. 6-23-02: Major delays in turning boat over….finally turned over June 8/02…started working on deck….pictures attached. (see Customer Photos)
STEELAWAY / Paul Oliverio / paulo@ados.com 9-29-00: I have the project about 80% completed. The only deviation from the plans was to replace the plywood cabin with 10gauge steel and frame. The engine is a Perkins 108 and is in place with Aqua Drive CV on the shaft. Current tasks…Deck stepping the mast with hydraulic vang and backstay. Installing an electric windlass and Electric primay on the cabin top with lines led to the cabin top. All major interior bulkheads are in place and still have finishing work to do. I plan to paint most of the interior white with mahogony trim, keeping everything bright inside…. Still have to paint the hull, deck and cabin. I’m thinking green bull with red boot and white rub rail and white cabin top. It’s been a great project, just doing in my spare time. 4-10-03: Still working on it… So many things and so little time…
STILETTO / Parker McQuown / mpmarcy@qwest.net / 10-31-99: Received plans & patterns 9-23-99 and started building a week later. Now hull is almost done and ready to flip over. I have about 60 hrs invested in construction; she really has a nice shape! This has been a really fun boat to build. 11-14-99: Just finished side decks. Next, flip back over and fiberglass. 85 hrs invested at this point. 1-11-00: Hull fiberglassed, righted, decking on. Plan to build seats next. 130 hours so far… The boat is a blast to build. 4-9-00: I am very close to being done now.I was able to find a used 90hp Johnston,a 1989 motor,it came with a SS raptor prop. I built my own trailer last weekend.I ordered and installed a steering system from Glen-L and I am very impressed with your service! Prepping for paint and I am hoping to have it painted within one month. I figure I have about 300 hrs into the boat and trailer and just under $4000. Not to bad for building a boat in my garage! 6-25-00: You asked if I would finish my time line on my boat. As best that I can figure i now have about 400 to 450 hrs. The only thing I don’t have done are the seat covers, I will be sewing them myself, so when I finish them i can say that I have completely done everything myself (the building of the boat,the trailer,all of the paint work and now the interior). My 90 hp Johnston turned out to be a real screamer. The boat turned out to be alot lighter than I expected… She sure is a pretty boat and people at the launch ramp have a hard time believing I built the boat myself. (See Customer Photos-Archives)
STILETTO / Alejandro Cárdenas y Resiere Cárdenas / Valdivia, X Region, Chile /alejav@mundoedwards.com / 12-6-01: My Stiletto project was started in April 2001, my father and I are now at the stage of coating, expect to begin soon with the fiberglass cover. Will then send photos.
(El proyecto del Stilleto se comenzo en Abril 2001 , actualmente estamos junto a mi Padre en la etapa de enchapado, esperamos pronto comenzar con la cubierta,luego enviaremos fotos.) 6-11-04: Les cuento el Stiletto esta terminado, lo comenzamos en Abril del 2001 y lo terminamos en Enero del 2004. Trabajando los fines de semana y cuando el clima lo permitía. Lo pretendo lanzar al agua en Diciembre del 2004, antes quiero enfibrarlo. Les adjunto algunas fotos para que se animen los indecisos. Quiero darle gracias a mi padre que es el experto constructor y que sin su ayuda este proyecto no hubiera llegado a buen puerto. (see Customer Photos)
STILETTO / Christopher Moore / clmoore@mtaonline.net / 3-11-03: I’ve been working on my Stiletto for a little over a year on & off on my days off. I’m getting ready to start on the fiberglassing process. 10-9-07: Well, alot has transpired with regards to my “Stiletto” project since I last reported. Since then I have finished fiberglassing the hull. I used West Systems epoxy resin, and yellow, dark gray carpet, and oak dash. I am currently finishing work on the steering wheel and throttle/drive controls which I have fabricated out of chain link and plan to have powder coated. I’ll hopefully have pics soon.
STRIPPER / Chris Ward / ccward30@juno.com / 7-14-01: Just finished stripping the hull and started the beginning of a long sanding operation. I took the long route and made my own strips out of cypress and walnut. I bought rough cut lumber at a local saw mill and planned it down to 3/4″, then cut it into 5/16″ strips. Then back to the planner and planned all the strips to down to 1/4″, then two passes through the router to get the bead and cove. Make sure you have a place to store all the strips since the glue up took me about two months to complete. I used Titebond II premium wood glue to glue the strips over the frame. Instead of using nails and staples to hold the strips together while the glue dried, I used another procedure I read about. I used 3″ long pieces of 1/4″ dowels and packing tape. Put the dowels in the cove about every 10 inches and pull the strips together and put the tape on to prevent the strip from moving while the glue dries. It worked really good and the hull didn’t have any holes to fill in. This has been a real fun project thus far, and everyone drives by the house very slow when I’m out working on the boat. Its a dream come true to build or create a work of art. 3-13-03: I started the boat in March of 2000 and finished it in July 2002. It really only took about five months of work, but I had many other projects come up since I moved into a new home. I even had to build a workshop to build the boat in. I built the boat with strips of local cypress and did the gunwales and thwart out of ash and dark walnut. The boat came out a little heavier at 70 lbs, but I think it is because of my epoxying experience and using some heavy wood. The next one I’m sure will come out lighter. Yes, there will be another one built. I enlarged the deck and put in a vertical bulkheads with a six inch diameter access plate for some dry storage and flotation compartments for those times of unexpected rotations while canoeing. (see Customer Photos)
STRIPPER / Dave Olson / Mesa, AZ / dolson126@cox.net / 9-14-02: Just starting. 4-10-03: I am in the midst of the project and am still putting on wood strips. Have run into a snag where I need to bend some wood and have to build a streamer for the wood strips. That will not be so hard, but building the form to clamp the wood strips in, is causing me to scratch my head. But I have not given up by any means. I am hoping to have the project completed by July 4. Please keep me on the registry as I am still working on the project and need all the support and help I can get.
STRIPPER / Matthew Royds and Tony Edwards / Sydney, New South Wales,Australia / roydsm@exemail.com.au / 11-20-05: We started the project in July 05 with the intention of having it complete for summer (southern hemisphere). Building has been mostly occurring one day on the weekend which accounts for the rate of progress. We’re mostly on track and should complete in January 06. We have chosen to build the canoe as a 17 foot version. The hull has been sanded and has the first layer of fibreglass. The hull is western red ceder with some pine highlights. The sheer will be Hoop Pine and the seats will be Ash. The breasthook and bulkheads will be made from leftover western red ceder and pine laminated together. It’s been a great project so far. Fibreglassing was a bit of a challenge but got through it without any major mishaps. We’re looking forward to removing the hull from the forms and commencing the interior detail work. 12-12-05: The project is progressing well. The exterior fibreglassing has been completed. The fibreglassing took a lot longer than I expected. We thought that we would have it done in two days. It took four. We have pulled the hull from the frame and have trimmed the sheer. We will be completeing the interior over Christmas, which will leave us the seats and detail work for Jan 06. New revised date for launch is Feb 06. Still enjoying the project. Glad to be over fibreglassing for the moment and back into woodwork. 7-13-06: The canoe is now finished. We plan on launching in the next week or so. Just have to finish the paddles! (see Customer Photos)
STRIPPER / William Peakcock / Fleming Island, Florida /peacockbng@comcast.net / 1-11-11: I have started on the 16’ Stripper canoe. Making good progress, a few mess-ups so far. Finished Set-Up and the 7 strips each side. Started on bottom. Quite a learning curve mating the angled strips to the sides. Had a bit of a problem – the 9/16 staples would not hold in the edges of the plywood form and kept coming out. Had to go to a 1” narrow crown staple. Some of the time I had to use 2 staples to keep the strip tight against the form – wow what a lot of holes to patch but it worked. I have finished the bottom and started down one side and have ran across a wonderful idea I saw on the internet. The builder used a “L” shaped scrap of wood to hold the strip up tight against the form. You can use it to hold as many as 4 strips in place while they dry. Reached the sheer point at form “0”. I stripped all the way to the end of the form, only to notice on the plans that the sheer point at form “0” ends before the end of the form. Oops. I am 70+ years old and free to enjoy building this canoe. I built a 17’ canoe last year but it turned out to be too heavy for a troop of boy scouts to lift. I used white oak 1/8” 4×8 sheets and cut 4 in strips and molded them with two layers. It must have weighed 200 lbs. I not sure it would even float. So much for that one…just move on. I have learned my lesson (I hope).
SUPER HUCK / Geoffrey Burns / Perth, Western Australia /advantagebyford@bigpond.com.au / 7-4-01: I have just commenced building a 32 foot Super Huck boat. It will consist of three hulls as per the plans with a beam of twelve feet and a custom (my own)design 16’x12′ cabin including upper deck and dual controls. I have been working for 3 days and have completed 3 stem assemblies from laminated 3/4″ plywood and have incorporated the bow spreader upright(slight mods)all in one member. I have also built 3 transoms, 3 ‘B’ bulkheads, 6 ‘A’ bulkheads and epoxy seal coated the stems. I am using an Australian Native hardwood called Tasmanian Oak for all bulkhead framing it is reasonably heavy but very strong and looks beautiful when epoxied. Total displacement will be around 7,000 lbs so a few extra pounds of wood will not be a big problem. This is my first boat-building experience so I thought I would start with someting simple. I would be interested in hearing from any-one else building pontoons. The full size patterns and detailed instructions are well above my expectations for the cost. 7-17-01: The building frame is now complete and the first bulkheads are ready to be notched for the longitudinals. To make things easier for later on all bulkheads and stems have been double coated with epoxy except on areas which need to be glued to something else. 7-23-01: Now just about have the first hull ready for sheeting. As in the instructions if the battens are projected to the stem it will tend to flatten the sheeting. This is the case with my hull but I have overcome this by forming a long double taper. I am really having a very good time doing this and now hope to be able to build a hull in four weeks total. The sheeting will have to be cut in some shorter lengths to start off as those available here are only 8 feet long and will fall on the bulkheads if not adjusted. I don’t really fancy trying to butt-block a sheet between the ‘B’ and ‘A’ bulkhead. 8-21-01: The first hull has just today had the final coating of two-pack polyurethane on top of the 3 coats of two-pack epoxy undercoat as well as the boot top being undercoated in a high copper single pack undercoat on top of the epoxy undercoat to take the anti-fouling later on. All the ‘paint’ has been applied by roller and then sanded, the finish is not quite yacht quality but acceptable to me. I have only fitted top decking to the bow area as the cabin and deck module are to be a permanent fitting joined to the hull by the extra cleats fitted to the bulkheads rather than by bolts as in the plans. The cleats are made from 3/4″ marine ply bolted and glued to the bulkhead and were also used to fit them to the building form which made it quite easy to square them up and hold in place. The tanks for water and grey water are being formed by the hulls being glassed in and this will help with the strength and allow access to plumbing as well as pumps. The second hull has three days work on it and is falling together at this stage. As in the first hull the sheers and the chine logs have both been constructed from laminated wood for greater strength and the flexibility to use hard-woods to bend. The use of the 8 foot sheets of ply ended up being quite OK but required some panels to be cut in odd lengths so as not to join at the bulkheads but no paneling was wasted as the off-cuts were used for the butt-blocks.
SUPER HUCK (8′ wide, 24′ long) / Les Lampman / Whidbey Island, Washington /lblampman@eqmarine.com / 10-19-01: Construction started in earnest on 10/14. First hull is framed and ready for sheeting which should be done in the next 2 days. Then on to the second hull.
SUPER HUCK (40′ long) / John Wright / Lake Livingston (Coldspring, Texas) /JohnCWrightSr@hotmail.com / I am 55 years old and I am a lifelong “big” boater. (I consider “big” as anything large enough to contain a comfortable galley, head, lounge, stateroom and a half dozen good friends.) The most attractive idea about my decision to build my own boat is having the ability to customize it exactly as I want it to be. So, when I received the Glen L Super Huck plans in the mail (just two days after my order), I immediately began reviewing the blueprints and the patterns… and was impressed. I knew even I could follow these directions accurately. Soon enough, even with a full time job and a bit busy social life and terrible weather, I still managed to complete all bulkheads (A & B, plus the transom & stem. I completed the building forms and had a solid level foundation in my yard on which to begin the actual pontoon assembly. I decided to extend my Super Huck pontoons to 40′ length and I plan on deck beam of 14′. With this in mind, I only had to make two minor changes to the pontoon plans, i.e.: 1.) Adding bulkheads to match a 40’ length. 2.) changing the bulkhead depth from 24″ to 36″. My pontoons are 12″ higher than the one in the plans and my stem is a bit longer which actually makes each pontoon extend to 41′. I made this change to add a bit more buoyancy for a little extra weight. I used Glen L’s cabin plan as a reference, but customized my cabin to 10′ x 24′ with a 6′ ceiling (I am a shorty & so are my kids). As of May 2005, I have completed the pontoons… My pontoons were encapsulated inside & out with epoxy and covered with fiberglass, and even at 40’ they are extremely rigid and strong. This summer, I hope to complete the cabin which is open, airy and lightweight. The cabin is nothing more than an enclosed head with a shower stall, and a closet under a 10’x 30’ ceiling. As far as it goes… I found the project to be pleasantly and surprisingly simple, and very inexpensive compared to buying pontoons. GlenL makes it easy, with easy to read and understand instructions. As for me, all I’ve needed is my little table saw, a hand saw, a huge carpenters’ level, a hand rasp, and some cheap (use one day & throw away) plastic bowls to mix epoxy in. And although I do not mean for this to sound like a commercial, as it is not… be sure to follow Glen L’s instructions and recommendations – as you progress with your project – you will see they have very good reasons for their advise. I am happy to respond to any questions or comments.
SUPER HUCK / Peter Dickie / Peter.dickie@xerox.com / 6-13-05: Status- Restored to good as new. (see Customer Photos)
SUPER HUCK / Stephen Gumper / Hermann MO / sd0279@fidnet.com / 7-6-06: A couple of pictures of the complete project. Details: 24 ft super huck hulls. Cabin 13ft with full galley, shower and toilet. Dinette converts to double bunk and two bunk beds. Fresh water tank 40 gal, gray water tank 30 gal, fuel 27 gal and gray water tanks in the pontoons. Battery with converters provide AC for refrigerator and other needs. On board generator recharges batteries. Power is a 15hp mercury 4 stroke ob. Speed is 6 mph 1600 rpm at about 1/3 gal per hour. Weight on this trip with water tank full, fuel 15 gals fuel and supplies for 4 days was 4260 lbs. She gives a very smooth ride, very stable. (see Customer Photos)
SUPER HUCK / John Ingle / Phelan, CA / jwingle@dslextreme.com / 12-6-06: I am building an Super Huck 8×24. I built the frames 3 years ago & I have been waiting for a break so I would have the time to build it. But it hasn’t happened & I decided that at 73 I’d just better do it while I can enjoy it. I have the frames set up & am installing the keel in the first pontoon. I built a Glen-l 14′ runabout about 40 years ago & really enjoyed that boat so I thought I’d try it again.
SUPER SPARTAN / Don Slomke / dslomke@adelphia.net / 11-16-03: received my plans on 11-8-03 and began purchasing lumber right away. I have completed the bottom planking w/ battens, chine runners installation, and frames # 1 & # 2. I am in the process of cutting out the transom. 11-23-03 Transom installed, chines, sheer clamp and side planking done. Starting the bowpiece today. 11-25-03: Bow piece, sheer clamps, side planking installed. Going to buy lumber for carlings today. After they are in place, it’s time to turn it over and start on the sponsons. Elapsed time: 17 days. 11-28-03: Hull is turned over and 1 sponson complete. 11-30-03: Bottom complete. Ready to turn back over and install decking, coaming, and dash. 12-8-03: Woodwork complete. I will have to wait ’til warmer weather to do the fiberglassing. That will give me time to make all the steering parts. 3-20-04: It’s starting to warm up, and I have resumed work on my boat. At this point, the bottom is fiberglassed and I will turn it over this week and finish the glass work on the top. 6-5-04: I finally got my Super Spartan in the water. With a warmed over 9.9 Yamaha and a stock 12″ pitch aluminum prop and a 160# driver, we saw 34 m.p.h. which exceeded my expectations. Now it’s time to start tuning the motor and testing props.(see Customer Photos)
SUPER SPARTAN / Don Slomke / dslomke@adelphia.net / 6-14-05: Well here we go again. I am building another Super Spartan. This is my 6th boat. I have the bottom, battens, and chine runners complete. Transom is cut out and about half the frame work is done. I will send pics soon.
SUPER SPARTAN / Nigel Wells / Christchurch, New Zealandlanaandnigel@xtra.co.nz / 3-2-08: Hi my name is Nigel Wells, I live in Christchurch, New Zealand. I ordred a set of plans for the SuperSparten and received them on the 30/1/08, I have sent a photo of work to date of what I have done so far. Exellent fun, will send some more photos as work progresses. Have also orded the steering set up as well should arrive in a few more days – can’t wait. Thanks Glen L (See Customer Photos)
SUPER SPARTAN / Mark Anderson / Toronto, Ontario, Canadaandersonhall@rogers.com / 9-8-08: Started project August 25, 2008. I have precut most of the components and have the bottom planking glued and nailed. I am beginning to prepare the frames for final assembly. So far, so good! While I am in the wood tooling industry selling custom tooling to the woodworking industry, I have never taken on a project like this. “Measure twice cut once.” I will keep you updated – pictures when I have something to show.
SUPER SPARTAN / Steve Bishop / Redmond, Washingtonsteveb@bensonmcl.com / 1-29-2011: Just ordered plans.
SWEET CAROLINE / Richard Barnes / oakbowerybarnes@earthlink.net / 6-24-99: Converting to stitch and glue construction. Bottom, transom, and motor well panels cut, frames built for finding planking shape. 11-19-00: My Sweet Caroline converted to stitch and glue is finished and made its first trip with seven aboard. Wonderfully steady boat, with good beaching and wave riding abilities. Got lots of nice comments from viewers and the grandkids loved it. Using a 9.9HP outboard, and 10 ft. oars. 12-9-01: The Sweet Caroline we built stitch and glue has proven to be a wonderful play boat for our family, fishing and island landing. Easy to come on and off the beaches. Needs more than 9.9 hp though. Gets some laughs from the people with smaller boats with bigger engines! Six gallons of gas is two days worth of fun, though. 4-20-03: We’re having fun with her. We have been using the boat in Mobile Bay and the Gulf of Mexico and fresh water lakes in Alabama. It has been on Moon Lake in North Alabama (the highest navigable water in AL and of course on the lowest at Mobile.) Still using a borrowed 9.9hp motor. Will probably buy a 20 or 25hp someday. Thanks for all the fun, Richard
SWEET CAROLINE / Robert Ellis / ellis198@yahoo.com / 7-14-99: Completed 1995, (see Boat Design Catalog). 4-13-03: I am now building the Bo-Jest and Flying Saucer.
SWEET CAROLINE / Donald Hodges / Lynn Haven, FL /don_dihodges@knology.net / 3-15-00: Frames, keel, transom, stem in place on strongback; putting on chine logs. Will add cabin ala “Cabin Skiff”. 1-20-01: Being finished as a mini-cruiser, to be powered by transom-mounted longshaft 40 hp Yamaha or comparable (Transom angle changed to 12 degrees and cut down to match side panels). Virtually all carpentry complete, including an anchor rode locker, trunk cabin, hardtop bimini, helm seat, “outhouse”, 24-gallon fuel tank, 16-gallon water capacity in two flat tanks under helm seat and outhouse. As of January 2001, most remaining work is fairing/painting. Scheduled for one week cruise in Florida Keys beginning 3/10/01, so launch date is mid-February. Progess photos and paint scheme sketch on website: http://www.ecoastlife.com. 2-28-01: Launched for engine break-in and trials. Very satisfactory at intended speeds (18-20 mph) but overpowered with 40 hp, tops out at 29-30 mph (didn’t stay there very long). 25 hp would be sufficient, 9.9 if you are into displacement-speed loafing. This is my first light, narrow flat-bottom planing boat and it is a nice experience: smooth transition to plane,goes on up through 10,12,15, 20 mph like a fast electric boat. Engine (Yamaha 40 2-stroke) is quiet enough at these speeds for conversation. Minimal slapping/pounding in light chop. Upwards of 24 mph, starts hobby-horsing and getting “loose”, scantlings probably too light for these speeds in chop. More on performance after correcting items from trials (raising swim steps added on stern to stop spray pattern on engine). 4-17-03: See http://www.ecoastlife.com/keys2001.html for photos and details of construction.
SWEET CAROLINE / Sean Dawe / Canada / seand@mail.gov.nf.ca 5-2-00: Purchased plans in April 1999. Began construction April 28, 2000. Building form complete. Stem cut from one piece of laminated beam – no need to lay up three layers of 1/2 plywood. Frames cut and partially assembled. Will be modifying for long shaft – wish me luck as details for this modification are scanty! 6-13-00: Frames and stem attached to keel. Transom finished and mounted to building form. Sheer clamps, bottom chines and battens fastened. Motor well completed and in place. No major modifications required. Ready for fairing. 6-13-01: After almost a year, construction has resumed. Repaired minor damage to frame caused by record snowfall (building outdoors) Began planking sides. Going is easier than anticipated. 8-17-01: Finished sheathing with fibreglass. Hull sanded and ready for painting. Sheathing was less stressful than initially imagined. Looks really good. 9-14-01: Hull painted and flipped. Thwarts, gunwales capped, foward seat in, and rub rail on. All interior painted. Ready to load onto trailer and test run. 10-11-01: Launched on September 17, 2001. Very happy. Decided that a slosh cover was needed. Made a cover out of wood and neoprene rubber. 4-22-03: My e-mail is the same. I finished my boat almost two years ago but now I am thinking about building a control console and/or small cabin. Our snow is almost all gone not but it is still a bit too cold (daily average temps of 5 celsius) for trips on the bay. Maybe in a few weeks!! (see Customer Photos)
SWEET CAROLINE / Charles Carter / Taylors, SC / Charles.Carter@integrys.net / 1-8-01: This is going to be a one night a week and 1/2 day a weekend project. I have a very good friend helping with the building Allyn Moseley ( he builds custom staircases ). We have completed the form and are scheduled to build the frames this week.
SWEET CAROLINE / Kit Lutgring / myeaux@aol.com / Lafayette, Louisiana / 12-10-87: Purchased plans after completing Steve Redmens “Swift” in Corpus Chriti, Texas. 07/16/00: Found plans and started project. 03/01/01: 57 hours into project, hull is framed and first sheet of plywood is ready to be fastened. Did have a little trouble interpreting the fastening directions for the motor well as the drawings did not have any bolts or screws depicted. 04-04-02: I have made a lot of progress since last year. The skiff is finished, with a small bow deck that has a samson post and anchor rope well. I have added a cuddy cabin/binimi top. The roof of the cuddy cabin will be hinged to fold back and be a binimi-type top. No plans for this, so it is going a little slow. I want to be able to stand on the roof when it is in the cuddy cabin position, but I do not want it too heavy so that when it is in the binimi top position that it effects the CG. I will also have provisions to store my standbye oars on the roof as well. The roof will have a sliding hatch that will aid in getting into the low clearance cuddy cabin and also provide space to stand at the helm (30 hp tiller model) when in the binimi position. To date, I have 196 hours invested and $458.34. This is what I call a Home Depot boat, every part has been purchased from there, except the motor. The motor was purchased new in 1987, but only has a couple of hundred hours on it. From what I have read from other builders, I think the 30 hp will move me fast enough. I have added a bit more material, so I am guessing the max weight to be about 750 lbs. Will update after bayou trials.
SWEET CAROLINE / Michael Kennedy / Milton , Ontario, Canada /maureenkennedy@sympatico.ca / 9-2-02: I am currently building the Sweet Caroline and am at the stage where I am ready to fit the motor well. 4-25-03: My Sweet caroline project is still in progress. I just purchased a 20′ X 10′ shelter and am ready to start preparing it for Fiber-Glassing. (see Customer Photos)
SWEET CAROLINE / Edward Valov / McFarland, CA / edwardv4@aol.com / 5-1-03: I am currently buiding the Sweet Caroline.
SWEET CAROLINE / Name removed by request / 6-28-05: This boat handles beautifully. Last weekend was the first beach camping trip along Lake Michigan and I’m very satisfied with the capabilities and performance of this boat. There’s ample room to stow camping gear. The bench seats covert nicely to a double berth. The boat floats in 3″-6″ of water and the fuel consumption should give a respectable range (~1.2 gal./hr.). My only complaint is with the motor well. I built the motor well around a 15″ shaft, but found that the new four strokes had a hard time swinging from stop to stop within the well. I added a 20″ motor board to fit a Nissan 18 hp motor which drives the boat at 12 mph at half throttle and 15 mph at full throttle. The 25 hp 4 strokes just would not fit. I wish the motor would move the boat at 20+, but 12-15 is very comfortable. Slosh boards have taken care of most of the water that splashes in through the motor well. A pair of small bilge pumps take care of the rest. The next step is to add camping canvas and possibly floatation. I met another boater over the weekend with a similiar homebuilt design that had a hinged door covering the outflow in the transom. He claimed to have run the boat in 10′ seas and said that the small door swings shut with following seas. (see Customer Photos)
SWEET CAROLINE / Jeff Meinke / Long Island, NY /jmeinke@thebakercompanies.com / 1-3-07: I have the frames built and set on the form. The stem and breasthook are assembled and dry fit. The transom is cut and dry fit with the lower interior frame not yet notched for keel or longitudinals. I am currently stressing out over the width and height of the motor well. I am anticipating using a 25 hp short shaft and am looking for input or suggestions.
SWEET CAROLINE / Tom Hess / tljns@yahoo.com / 3-7-07: Have started construction on ‘Sweet Caroline’ with the plans from you. I found everything great so far. The building form will be anchored this weekend I hope. Including the form in the drawings was a terrific idea. Saved a lot of headwork which is not my strongpoint anyhow. Even though I’m not ready for it I had to try tracing and cutting one of the REAL boat parts. You’ll be happy to know that the Breasthook actually LOOKS like a Breasthook. I will be needing the Glue and Screws soon (not soon enough for me) so put some away for me.
3-5-08: Lets just say I started with the Sweet Caroline, but I am making some modifications to the plan which I think will suit my purposes for the boat better. I am hoping to get use of a digital camera to send some photos. Am still hoping for a mid-summer launch.
SWEET CAROLINE / Courtney Gust / Muskegon, MI Ccplasticparts@aol.com / 4-24-08: I am getting ready to splash test my Sweet Caroline I have been building for the last year and a half. (See Customer Photos)
SWISH / Todd G. Williams and Jim Cassidy / sail.fast@mindspring.com / 6-26-99: Not sure this qualifies, but we are restoring/rebuilding a Glen-L Swish, built in the late 1950’s. The deck has been removed and some damaged beams replaced. Transom replaced, two floor timers sistered. Ready to start re-assembly of deck and sole. 12-10-00: After some delays, the project is back on track. The deck framing is now complete and some of the ornamental woodwork has been replaced. Cold weather will shut down the project for the winter soon, but will continue with earnest in the spring. Would like to hear from others with classic Glen-L boats. 4-17-03: The project is coming along very well. Left to do: have the seat cushions made, finish the seat pans, put on the final paint (turquoise boat paint is not easy to find) and assemble the whole thing. Weather, time and money aside, it should be ready the end of June. (see Customer Photos)
SWISH / Greg Schmalz / gekschmalz@eastlink.ca / 6-2-2017: My 1957 Swish was found as an ad that is still on Antique Boats. It was sitting in a shed near Grand Bend, Ontario Canada completely intact including a period double axle trailer and the 35 hp Evinrude Golden Jubilee motor. Boat was in solid condition. We replaced the mahogany rear deck, sistered up some frame members, epoxy repaired old dock scar, replaced the floor boards adding vent grates, 6 coats of clear epoxy with sandings between coats, laid in the white epoxy paint then the classic red, bottom coat in light grey, new carpet, sandblasted and painted trailer in matching red. Motor gone over and starter replaced. She’s a great conversation piece anywhere she goes especially towed behind the 50 Plymouth.
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