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To read the previous posts in this series, click the links below:
Part 1
Part 2

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

I completed fitting up the frames into the chine/bottom assembly and have been sanding and gluing them in this week. I leveled out the bottom and did frame 1 and 3 yesterday. Today I did frame 2 and some fitting on the transom. Other than the notch for frame 2, there is nothing notable about the others except to get them located properly and squared up.

The frame kit was nice to have as all the putzy work of putting them together was done by Glen L. The frames are quality Philipine mahogany and DF plywood. If I were to make another Super Spartan, I would opt to use okoume or maranti instead of the DF, but that is only my preference to the nicer grain and color. The DF is, otherwise, fine. I may use some leftover 4 mm maranti to dress up the DF that is more exposed, like the ends of the sponsons. I will be using some 6 mm okoume to dress up the transom, though. I wish Glen L would start making frame kits again (hint hint) as they are nice and sure speed things up.

This is an overview of the frames in place and the transom clamped in postion to check fitup.

This shows how the end of the side plank blocking on the frame 2 tucks into the notch on the chine.

This is a pic of the joint from the underside where the frame attaches to the runner chine.

Wednesday, November 2, 2011 Note

Anyone familiar with the Super Spartan build might notice my two screwups.

The obvious one is frame 1 is backward. I was intent on getting the frame member lined up on the registration line. I noticed after the glue cured that I put it on backward. It’s not a big deal and will not really change anything. It just offsets the blocking for the deck 1/2″.

But that’s OK because I also screwed up on the length of the aft side planks. There is a note on the pattern to make the planks 3/4″ longer to allow for the plank to overlap the transom ply. I had my pattern sheet copied and the note on the copy was illegible and I missed it and made the plank per the pattern without the extra 3/4″.

So I got out my Zona saw and wacked off 1/2″ off the battens and chines. I don’t think the boat will notice either mistake, but I wanted to mention it should anyone using my blog as a guide be confused over them.  In retrospect, I remember reading the note on the original, but I just plain old forgot. My bad!!!!

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Minor errors can be repaired or, if they do not alter or weaken the structure and can be worked around, ignored. Best to not make too many as that leads to sloppy workmanship.

This weekend I installed the bow pieces. Two pieces are laminated from 1/4″ and 1/2″ plywood and run from frame 2, through frame 3 and butt up against the bottom ply at the front end of the runner chine. The pattern allows for a bit longer so it can be sheared off to fit the bottom plank. The other two bow pieces are cut from 1/2″ plywood and are laminated to the first two pieces and glued to the bottom plank where they meet in the center.

When laying the bow pieces up it will be helpful to level the structure and prop up the bow so it has it’s natural pitch upward as defined by the curve in the runner chines. Yesterday I layed in the pieces that run between the frames to the front sides of the bottom plank. Today I trimmed those pieces to butt up to the bottom plank. Next the front bow pieces were fitted and trimmed, then glued and clamped.

Here you can see the port side bow piece has been glued in and clamped. The 1/4" part is on the bottom so it will butt up against the edge of the bottom plank and allow the 1/2" piece that is laminated on top of it to fit properly on to the bottom plank.

Here you see the end of the 1/4" part butting up against the plank and the 1/2" piece that will be laminated over it and the plank.

Here you see the pieces clamped in place and the joint created by the plank and the 1/4" and 1/2" pieces.

All the pieces have been glued and clamped in position. You can see the rise in the bow and the characteristic hydroplane shape forming. The excess plank outside the bow piece will be trimmed off after the resin has cured.