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To read the previous posts in this series, click the links below:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
December 2, 2011
I haven’t accomplished much lately as I am waiting for the mahogany for the coamings, sheers and carlings. It’s supposed to be here by Dec. 6th, but that is not cast in stone. I did glue and screw the bottom of the transom to the bottom plank and the battens and chines. I left the side planks loose so I would not create a bubble in them when the sheers are installed. I also rounded out the front of the bottom plank around the bow piece. Hopefully I will have the needed wood next week. Oh, well!!! I do have Christmas shopping, getting the tree up, and decorating.
The transom is glued and screwed to the bottom. Screws used so far were installed from the back, through the transom and into the battens and chines. There are more blocks, glue, and screws to be installed later when I get the rest of the wood.
Here the bottom plank has been trimmed even with the bow pieces. The top of the bow pieces will be faired later for the decking and the edge blunted for a SS rub rail.
December 7, 2011
Finally got my mahogany for the sheers, carlings and coamings. Last night Rich and I ripped the sheers and carlings from the two 10 ft by 3″ pieces. Normally I would have run them through the planer, but I had one squared up edge and the ripped edge will be planed off when I fair them for the planking, so I left them wide.I spent the day cleaning up and sizing the notches for the sheers. The aft end of the sheer gets a compound miter cut. 15 deg. for the transom and 10 for the sides seemed to fit nicely. Need to remember to make a right and a left when cutting these. The front end gets a crazy bevel where it ties into the bow. More on that later, I’m still fitting them.I needed to make the notches for the sheers in the transom a bit deeper, but they were already attached to the transom (frame kit) which posed a slight access problem. I was able to make nice cuts using that little vibrating sander/cutter I got from Harbor Freight. The chisel like vibrating blade plunged right into the frame member and made a nice cut. I just needed to pry the side plank out a bit to allow room for the cutter.Tomorrow I’ll finish fitting the sheers and glue and screw them in.
Here I am cutting the notch in the transom member a little deeper using that vibrating sander cutter. I needed to pry out the side plank to allow for the oscillations of the tool.A better view of the tool. It has a triangular sanding head and various tools for cutting. I got this one for $20.00 and it is great for sanding in corners and cutting in tight spots.This is the aft end of the sheer and the compound miter joint into the transom.
A better view of the tool. It has a triangular sanding head and various tools for cutting. I got this one for $20.00 and it is great for sanding in corners and cutting in tight spots.
This is the aft end of the sheer and the compound miter joint into the transom.
December 10, 2011
The last few days I spent installing the sheers, transom framing, and batten support. In case I did not mention this earlier, I used silicon bronze screws in place of the ringshank nails. The nails were used in the assembling of the frames, which is how I would have made them, but I prefer using screws and predrilling the holes for them when it comes to assembling the structure itself. The sheers were attached to the transom through frame two on one day. I also secured the side planks at that time. 1 1/2″ # 8 screws were used on the sheers and 3/4″ # 8 to secure the side planks and copious amounts of Gel Magic. I like the Gel Magic, but it is opaque in color, so I need to clean excess thoroughly before it cures or sand it off in areas that I want to finish bright. In the future I will probably use Glen L Poxy Grip. This product is transparent and I won’t need to be so fussy if a bit gets left behind.After the aft sections of the sheers were attached, the next day I fastened them to frame 3 and the bow. There is a bevel that needs to be made as the sheer lands on the bow. The sheer gets severely faired in the front, so I will add some extra support to it from the bottom when I flip the hull over to add other components.Today I cleaned up the area where the batten support gets installed and I notched the upper transom frame members for the carlings and coamings. There is another compound angle in the notches so it is necessary to plan and cut these so the carlings fit in snuggly. The side angle is 10 deg and the transom angle is 15.Once all fitted up, they were glued and screwed in place using 1 1/4″ screws through the transom ply, from the outside, and into the frame members.
Here is the sheer mounted in place showing the bevel at the bow.
This shows the upper transom frame member and the notch for the carling and space left for the coaming that will butt up to the transom and lap the upper sides of the transom.
Here all the inside transom frame pieces are installed and awaiting the carlings and coamings.
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